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Thread: M60 power steering hose

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Wisconsin
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    239

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jehu View Post
    I have this exact issue... If you find that write up It'd help me take care of mine. I have new clamps and assumed I'd have to go in thru the grill/headlight but hadn't realized the cruise control actuator was in the way too.. thanks for posting.. I recenl'ty replaced the hose clamps under the reseviour and still get leaks to I think the spout necks may have hairline cracks perhaps from overtightening the hose clamps or the hoses are weeping though they look intact.
    I wish the write-up were accessible. The archives have a post that says replacing the short hoses is "not for the faint of heart" (heh) and then there's a link. Clicking it gets 404. I'm sure that's where I found the write-up.

    Still, I can offer a little more insight. I just did the job a few months ago.

    Pulling the cruise-control actuator isn't all that tough. I believe there was just a 6mm socket-head screw holding it in place (maybe two). The screw on the side of the unit facing the engine is a bitch to get at, but once it's loose you can unplug the actuator and swing it out of the way.

    Space to work is limited if you're as ham-fisted as I am. I recall the write-up suggesting removal of the bumper to provide better access. That would certainly make the cooling coil accessible, and removing that should make hose R&R quite a bit easier. It's difficult to remove and install the hoses with the tubing ends they connect fixed in place.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
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    239

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    It can be a mess, and expensive. The best price I've found for the Pentosin 11 my car takes is $18 a liter. You don't want to see that stuff dripping on the ground.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Phoenix
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    140

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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    .

    Maybe you just filled too much fluid into the reservoir? When it is parked, and in case the car has LAD rear shocks, and the regulating valve at the rear is not 100% at zero mark, the fluid will return from the rear overnight into the reservoir and fill it.
    Check the fluid in the reservoir when you park the car, and then on the next morning when you start the car.
    Shogun,
    No LAD, I'm going to check this out really well before I jump into it. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and hope for something that isnt worse possible problem. Thanks for the help
    Johan

  4. #14

    Default leakers

    my 530i is leaking pentosin pretty badly. need to find where from first, but assume i've got to change out some hoses soon.

    If anybody finds that post on the low-pressure hoses, would love to see it.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    239

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoBummers View Post
    my 530i is leaking pentosin pretty badly. need to find where from first, but assume i've got to change out some hoses soon.

    If anybody finds that post on the low-pressure hoses, would love to see it.
    Maybe this diagram will help. The hoses I referred to are part no. 8.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=32&fg=20

    As Shogun mentioned, the hose connections to the reservoir are also likely points for leaks.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Phoenix
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard View Post
    Maybe this diagram will help. The hoses I referred to are part no. 8.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=32&fg=20

    As Shogun mentioned, the hose connections to the reservoir are also likely points for leaks.
    Hello all and thanks for the help and guidance. I wanted to let you all know that I have just finished fixing the leaks. I didnt touch any of the high pressure stuff as it just isnt leaking. It was all the low pressure stuff to and from the cooler. I replaced all the hose's I had and replaced all the factory clamps with good hose clamps. So far so good and for sure its a lot better than it was. It is a lot of work. I removed the grill and drivers side headlight and then moved the cruse control module to make room to get to the clamps. Once it was moved there was a lot more room to get in there and cut off the clamps. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the factory clamps off and replaced with good quality hose clamps. Wow its been a busy weekend and now I have new upper and lower control arms installed, sway bar links installed, rear pitman arms installed, and fixed the leaking power steering hose's. All I have left to do for now is install the new valve cover gaskets and I should be good to go for the first time. Oh yeah this all started because I had to replace the water pump last Thursday lol.
    Thanks
    Johan

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
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    Quote Originally Posted by h2oyo View Post
    Hello all and thanks for the help and guidance. I wanted to let you all know that I have just finished fixing the leaks. I didnt touch any of the high pressure stuff as it just isnt leaking. It was all the low pressure stuff to and from the cooler. I replaced all the hose's I had and replaced all the factory clamps with good hose clamps. So far so good and for sure its a lot better than it was. It is a lot of work. I removed the grill and drivers side headlight and then moved the cruse control module to make room to get to the clamps. Once it was moved there was a lot more room to get in there and cut off the clamps. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the factory clamps off and replaced with good quality hose clamps. Wow its been a busy weekend and now I have new upper and lower control arms installed, sway bar links installed, rear pitman arms installed, and fixed the leaking power steering hose's. All I have left to do for now is install the new valve cover gaskets and I should be good to go for the first time. Oh yeah this all started because I had to replace the water pump last Thursday lol.
    Thanks
    Johan
    Happy to hear the hose project (and the other stuff!) turned out for you. Congratulations.

    Regarding the valve cover gaskets -- some people may disagree with me, but I'd suggest replacing just the rubber grommets that are on the valve cover retaining bolts first. I suspect the gaskets leak because the grommets harden and shrink, which loosens the gasket seal. After doing the job on my car, I'm not convinced that the gasket itself failed.

    Replacing just the grommets is a fairly easy job, compared with replacing the gasket, which is a pain. You may want to give them a try before pulling the covers.

    I've got the water pump on my agenda this summer -- with 70K miles on it, I suspect it's due.

  8. #18

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    If the grommets haven't ever been changed they are almost impossible to get out without them breaking up, potentially dropping hardened rubber fragments into the valve train (ask me how I know.)

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,894

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    Just finished M60 power steering hoses today. This job really test your tool box. You need lots of tools to do this job. 24mm wrench, 22mm socket, all sorts of extensions and universals.

    Before I go into details. If you are not handy or have the time, then do the short cuts. Cut back the old clamped section and use new clamps.

    1. One hose by the reservoir is low pressure hose, replace this whole hose it is about 16" long and two clamps.

    2. Further to the front from the above hose, there is a skinnier hose with odd bends... cut back old section and use new clamp.

    3. High pressure hose to the reservoir... cut back and new clamp.

    This should solve 90% of your leaking problem. Be sure to degrease the whole area to get rid of all the grimes after you finish the job.


    If you want to replace all three hoses, be prepared to spend time. The number 1 hose above is so easy.

    The number 2 hose is not too bad... you have to remove a clamp holding the other loop hose in the way to get to the banjo bolt... be sure to get new 2 washers.

    Number 3 is the hardest, you have to remove a 10mm bolt holding the bracket. Remove banjo bolt and pull entire hose section down. Reinsert new hose the same way and use a long plier to pull up. Nothing else need to be removed.

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