M60 power steering hose

Hello all,
I spent all day Saturday changing out a water pump on my 95 540i. Its not that it is hard job but removing the spin on fan that can become frustrating. Now that it is fixed and running great I would like to replace my leaking power steering hoses. I have ordered the hoses and figured since i'm going to do it I will just change them all. My question is i have read about how very difficult it is to change these on the M60. I seen this doing searches about how to change them. I have the manual but I was wondering if anyone here has been through it and has any pointers or a walk through on this job. I want to thank everyone for the wonderful help that has been given in the past.
Johan

My only concern for you diy is that if these hoses are not tight and positioned perfectly the one that is closest to the alternator has been known to jump or wiggle into it under load and a left hand turn and it shorts out your battery...if not total engine fire from the red lead just frying and smoking. This happened to me after a poor repair of one or the other (as I had done valley gaskets, then alternator, then hoses last over a short period of time..not really sure which was wrong) and is a very scary situation that you really have to be on your game to turn the car off and open the hood and put a potential fire out, not to mention that the battery is usually under a childs safety seat.

I know it's happened to one or more v8 owners and is written up in the archives somewhere back in 03-04

I will not reiterate what a PIA to do the PS hoses on the M60, something you already know, except to say study hard and remember the exact routing each hose goes. Take pictures if you have to. These include the hoses to and from the oil filter housing. Each of them hoses goes in a specific way from the origin to the destination.

No. I have never done it with the engine in car. I did with the engine removed during the 6 speed conversion.

I did the reservoir to pump hose replacement a few months ago, huge PITA and really pretty much impossible to either remove the old hose or get the new one in position without bending the mounting tab on the metal portion of the hose back so that it can clear the tiny space that it needs to be snaked through. Obviously this presents a problem with the replacement as you need to get the tab re-bent so that it can be attached to the block. I wish I had taken some pictures as I was doing this, but at the time all I could think of was about how I would like to waterboard the engineer who came up with such nonsense.....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KBarcellos

but at the time all I could think of was about how I would like to waterboard the engineer who came up with such nonsense.....

---

This gets my vote for post of the day

Johan, I'd suggest replacing the lower-pressure return hoses before touching the high-pressure stuff. They're a lot cheaper to replace and more likely to be the leakers, I believe, as they're held in place with standard hose clamps.

The tough ones to get to are the two short pieces of hose that connect the cooling loop to the system. They're under the brake booster, mounted on the frame rail on an LHD car. You'll have to remove the grille, headlight unit and cruise control actuator to get to them. Even then they're a pain to replace, but at least they cost next to nothing.

Perhaps the extended exposure to hot fluid hardens and shrinks them -- on my car I could rotate the hoses while they were mounted to the tubes with the factory clamps. Of course, they leaked badly, and spilled fluid onto the frame rail under the brake booster (which probably saved it from rusting after the master cylinder grommets leaked brake fluid in the same area and ate up the paint).

I believe there was an excellent how-to writeup in the archives, but now I can't find it. But you can see how things go together using the parts illustrations at realoem.com.

Another potential spot for leakage is where the return line connects to the power steering reservoir. Some folks just trim off the cracked end of the hose and reattach it with satisfactory results. If the reservoir is original, you may want to replace it -- the unit has a non-renewable filter.

Usually they leak from under the Pentosin container, here a pic, there are clamps
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/155935/
I replaced all my hydraulic hoses, recrimped them with the original BMW steel parts in a hydraulic shop. Here the old hose and the cut off old crimp sleeve
http://img50.imageshack.us/my.php?im...lauch136mn.jpg
And here are the connections ON the pump, that are banjo bolts, and here you can see a broken banjo bolt, which I removed from my 750 Highline, the previous owner tightened the bolts too much and they broke and it leaked
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/124919/
I replaced the broken banjo bolts and the copper rings and no more leak then.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard

Johan, I'd suggest replacing the lower-pressure return hoses before touching the high-pressure stuff. They're a lot cheaper to replace and more likely to be the leakers, I believe, as they're held in place with standard hose clamps.

The tough ones to get to are the two short pieces of hose that connect the cooling loop to the system. They're under the brake booster, mounted on the frame rail on an LHD car. You'll have to remove the grille, headlight unit and cruise control actuator to get to them. Even then they're a pain to replace, but at least they cost next to nothing.

Perhaps the extended exposure to hot fluid hardens and shrinks them -- on my car I could rotate the hoses while they were mounted to the tubes with the factory clamps. Of course, they leaked badly, and spilled fluid onto the frame rail under the brake booster (which probably saved it from rusting after the master cylinder grommets leaked brake fluid in the same area and ate up the paint).

I believe there was an excellent how-to writeup in the archives, but now I can't find it. But you can see how things go together using the parts illustrations at realoem.com.

Another potential spot for leakage is where the return line connects to the power steering reservoir. Some folks just trim off the cracked end of the hose and reattach it with satisfactory results. If the reservoir is original, you may want to replace it -- the unit has a non-renewable filter.

---

I have this exact issue... If you find that write up It'd help me take care of mine. I have new clamps and assumed I'd have to go in thru the grill/headlight but hadn't realized the cruise control actuator was in the way too.. thanks for posting.. I recenl'ty replaced the hose clamps under the reseviour and still get leaks to I think the spout necks may have hairline cracks perhaps from overtightening the hose clamps or the hoses are weeping though they look intact.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard

Johan, I'd suggest replacing the lower-pressure return hoses before touching the high-pressure stuff. They're a lot cheaper to replace and more likely to be the leakers, I believe, as they're held in place with standard hose clamps.

The tough ones to get to are the two short pieces of hose that connect the cooling loop to the system. They're under the brake booster, mounted on the frame rail on an LHD car. You'll have to remove the grille, headlight unit and cruise control actuator to get to them. Even then they're a pain to replace, but at least they cost next to nothing.

Perhaps the extended exposure to hot fluid hardens and shrinks them -- on my car I could rotate the hoses while they were mounted to the tubes with the factory clamps. Of course, they leaked badly, and spilled fluid onto the frame rail under the brake booster (which probably saved it from rusting after the master cylinder grommets leaked brake fluid in the same area and ate up the paint).

I believe there was an excellent how-to writeup in the archives, but now I can't find it. But you can see how things go together using the parts illustrations at realoem.com.

Another potential spot for leakage is where the return line connects to the power steering reservoir. Some folks just trim off the cracked end of the hose and reattach it with satisfactory results. If the reservoir is original, you may want to replace it -- the unit has a non-renewable filter.

---

OH man, I'm a bit worried about this now. I need this car as it is my daily driver. I sure dont want to have any fires. Maybe I should just do as you said and try to change the hoses' or clamps. I just dont want the car leaking the oil slick it is leaking now. I went through a quart of steering fluid in about 5 weeks. Not to mention the mess running across the air dam. It seems to leak only when parked, I'm going to try and get the area cleaned up well and see if I can find the leaking point. Thanks for all the help and i'll let you know how it turns out.
Johan

Quote:

---

seems to leak only when parked, I'm going to try and get the area cleaned up well and see if I can find the leaking point. Thanks for all the help and i'll let you know how it turns out

---

.

Maybe you just filled too much fluid into the reservoir? When it is parked, and in case the car has LAD rear shocks, and the regulating valve at the rear is not 100% at zero mark, the fluid will return from the rear overnight into the reservoir and fill it.
Check the fluid in the reservoir when you park the car, and then on the next morning when you start the car.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jehu

I have this exact issue... If you find that write up It'd help me take care of mine. I have new clamps and assumed I'd have to go in thru the grill/headlight but hadn't realized the cruise control actuator was in the way too.. thanks for posting.. I recenl'ty replaced the hose clamps under the reseviour and still get leaks to I think the spout necks may have hairline cracks perhaps from overtightening the hose clamps or the hoses are weeping though they look intact.

---

I wish the write-up were accessible. The archives have a post that says replacing the short hoses is "not for the faint of heart" (heh) and then there's a link. Clicking it gets 404. I'm sure that's where I found the write-up.

Still, I can offer a little more insight. I just did the job a few months ago.

Pulling the cruise-control actuator isn't all that tough. I believe there was just a 6mm socket-head screw holding it in place (maybe two). The screw on the side of the unit facing the engine is a bitch to get at, but once it's loose you can unplug the actuator and swing it out of the way.

Space to work is limited if you're as ham-fisted as I am. I recall the write-up suggesting removal of the bumper to provide better access. That would certainly make the cooling coil accessible, and removing that should make hose R&R quite a bit easier. It's difficult to remove and install the hoses with the tubing ends they connect fixed in place.

It can be a mess, and expensive. The best price I've found for the Pentosin 11 my car takes is $18 a liter. You don't want to see that stuff dripping on the ground.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by shogun

.

Maybe you just filled too much fluid into the reservoir? When it is parked, and in case the car has LAD rear shocks, and the regulating valve at the rear is not 100% at zero mark, the fluid will return from the rear overnight into the reservoir and fill it.
Check the fluid in the reservoir when you park the car, and then on the next morning when you start the car.

---

Shogun,
No LAD, I'm going to check this out really well before I jump into it. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed and hope for something that isnt worse possible problem. Thanks for the help
Johan

my 530i is leaking pentosin pretty badly. need to find where from first, but assume i've got to change out some hoses soon.

If anybody finds that post on the low-pressure hoses, would love to see it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NoBummers

my 530i is leaking pentosin pretty badly. need to find where from first, but assume i've got to change out some hoses soon.

If anybody finds that post on the low-pressure hoses, would love to see it.

---

Maybe this diagram will help. The hoses I referred to are part no. 8.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=32&fg=20

As Shogun mentioned, the hose connections to the reservoir are also likely points for leaks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mr._Graybeard

Maybe this diagram will help. The hoses I referred to are part no. 8.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=32&fg=20

As Shogun mentioned, the hose connections to the reservoir are also likely points for leaks.

---

Hello all and thanks for the help and guidance. I wanted to let you all know that I have just finished fixing the leaks. I didnt touch any of the high pressure stuff as it just isnt leaking. It was all the low pressure stuff to and from the cooler. I replaced all the hose's I had and replaced all the factory clamps with good hose clamps. So far so good and for sure its a lot better than it was. It is a lot of work. I removed the grill and drivers side headlight and then moved the cruse control module to make room to get to the clamps. Once it was moved there was a lot more room to get in there and cut off the clamps. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the factory clamps off and replaced with good quality hose clamps. Wow its been a busy weekend and now I have new upper and lower control arms installed, sway bar links installed, rear pitman arms installed, and fixed the leaking power steering hose's. All I have left to do for now is install the new valve cover gaskets and I should be good to go for the first time. Oh yeah this all started because I had to replace the water pump last Thursday lol.
Thanks
Johan

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by h2oyo

Hello all and thanks for the help and guidance. I wanted to let you all know that I have just finished fixing the leaks. I didnt touch any of the high pressure stuff as it just isnt leaking. It was all the low pressure stuff to and from the cooler. I replaced all the hose's I had and replaced all the factory clamps with good hose clamps. So far so good and for sure its a lot better than it was. It is a lot of work. I removed the grill and drivers side headlight and then moved the cruse control module to make room to get to the clamps. Once it was moved there was a lot more room to get in there and cut off the clamps. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the factory clamps off and replaced with good quality hose clamps. Wow its been a busy weekend and now I have new upper and lower control arms installed, sway bar links installed, rear pitman arms installed, and fixed the leaking power steering hose's. All I have left to do for now is install the new valve cover gaskets and I should be good to go for the first time. Oh yeah this all started because I had to replace the water pump last Thursday lol.
Thanks
Johan

---

Happy to hear the hose project (and the other stuff!) turned out for you. Congratulations.

Regarding the valve cover gaskets -- some people may disagree with me, but I'd suggest replacing just the rubber grommets that are on the valve cover retaining bolts first. I suspect the gaskets leak because the grommets harden and shrink, which loosens the gasket seal. After doing the job on my car, I'm not convinced that the gasket itself failed.

Replacing just the grommets is a fairly easy job, compared with replacing the gasket, which is a pain. You may want to give them a try before pulling the covers.

I've got the water pump on my agenda this summer -- with 70K miles on it, I suspect it's due.

If the grommets haven't ever been changed they are almost impossible to get out without them breaking up, potentially dropping hardened rubber fragments into the valve train (ask me how I know.)

Just finished M60 power steering hoses today. This job really test your tool box. You need lots of tools to do this job. 24mm wrench, 22mm socket, all sorts of extensions and universals.

Before I go into details. If you are not handy or have the time, then do the short cuts. Cut back the old clamped section and use new clamps.

1. One hose by the reservoir is low pressure hose, replace this whole hose it is about 16" long and two clamps.

2. Further to the front from the above hose, there is a skinnier hose with odd bends... cut back old section and use new clamp.

3. High pressure hose to the reservoir... cut back and new clamp.

This should solve 90% of your leaking problem. Be sure to degrease the whole area to get rid of all the grimes after you finish the job.


If you want to replace all three hoses, be prepared to spend time. The number 1 hose above is so easy.

The number 2 hose is not too bad... you have to remove a clamp holding the other loop hose in the way to get to the banjo bolt... be sure to get new 2 washers.

Number 3 is the hardest, you have to remove a 10mm bolt holding the bracket. Remove banjo bolt and pull entire hose section down. Reinsert new hose the same way and use a long plier to pull up. Nothing else need to be removed.