Pry off the BMW emblem with a small flathead
I believe its a 22mm (7/8" works well) deep socket, or shorty with an extension to remove the nut.
Pull the wheel off, cover the steering column, levers/toggles etc. with a rag.
With a small philips, remove the two screws at the top of the cluster. Lean down and look up, you'll see a metal tag with the two screws.
Now is the only semi-tricky part. Tilt the cluster gently forward and shimmy it out far enough to remove the wire harnesses from behind. Now, keep pulling it forward/down to squeeze it out of its confines.
Flip it over to find a plethora of little bits. I didn't change any bulbs, so cannot provide any input, except for the link below, which may help with part numbers.
Cluster Parts Diagram
Good Luck