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Thread: windows and sunroof not working - general module ? where to buy

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    8

    Default windows and sunroof not working - general module ? where to buy

    if it is not one thing it is another. None of the windows or the sunroof work. I checked ALL of the fuses and they are good. ResŚarched it some and thenj checkeš the fusible link by the battery....it is also good.
    When I turn on the car and push a window button, I hear a click in the general module under the backseat. It will only click once, then I have to turn key off and then back on....then it will click again.
    Only thing that has changed is the low beam on the drivers side went out....but I do not see how they could affect windows....
    I am guessing a general module ?

    hate to guess wrong tho as it cost 250.00 and I am selling the car as soon as I can get it all straightened out.....
    any suggestions ? Any one live in Tennessee ? I would like to swap a good one in and see if that is the problem before I buy one....

    all help greatly appreciated...
    don4@charter.net

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    i doubt that the gm or rm died and took out everything, id be looking at powers and grounds, theres a relay under the back seat that powers up the modules but i can't remember which
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default I would say you better make some checks ...

    before spending that kind of money in a GM. Determine if the click you hear is the K15 "Power protection Relay", It is the relay right besides GM.

    If so, check you are not over fused in F47 (30A), remove the relay, and make a jumper between relay socket (X294) pin 8 and socket pin 2. Test momentarily your windows. If they do not burn the F47, check the circuit path (No windows movement), and resistor (Slow windows) inside the General Module, connected between pin 4 to X332 and pin 5 to X332. X332 is a 5 pin clear connector below General module (see picture).

    You can start checking continuity from X332-4 and X332-5, if high resistance there, you either have a damaged resistor or a damaged solder point, probably at resistor leads. Just debug the path from pin 4 to pin 5 looking for what is causing high resistance.

    If the fuse blows when you check the window operation, you probably have a short circuit in the Windows power circuit, not in the General Module, but may be the relay module, or associated harness.

    I would say the highest probability is you have an open soldering point at metering resistor leads (Resistor between pins 4 and 5 to X332 connector of GM.

    Let us know your findings.

    Javier

    Edit: Links to missing pictures
    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...ntid=859&stc=1
    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachm...ntid=860&stc=1
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by Javier; 04-01-2006 at 04:57 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    3,395

    Default

    GREAT info, Javier!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    308

    Default Don, before you do anything at all re-check your fusible link...

    ...if it's a 525i - when the sunroof and windows stop working at the same time it's almost always the Fusible Link. Unscrew and remove the link completely just to make sure that it is intact. Some times it can look good but isn't.

    regards
    Phil

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Also don't trust any fuse just by looking.

    Specially F47.

    Javier
    Last edited by Javier; 04-01-2006 at 04:57 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    8

    Default

    as for the fusible link, I checked it with a ohm meter and it was fine.
    As for the other info.......thank you. I appreciate you taking the time and getting me this info. I will post if I find the problem.....
    Thanks again

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    982

    Default

    I assume you are talking about the fuseable link the passenger shock tower ?

    Did you remove it to make sure that it was not cracked? You may get enough contact to trip an ohm meter but may not be able to flow the current to acutate those power intensive devices.



    Quote Originally Posted by donberry
    as for the fusible link, I checked it with a ohm meter and it was fine.
    As for the other info.......thank you. I appreciate you taking the time and getting me this info. I will post if I find the problem.....
    Thanks again
    Derek A.
    90 535i 5 Speed - Style 5 17"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    8

    Default

    javier - thanks so much. It was a damaged resistor. Replaced it with radio shack one and she works great now. I appreciate your thorough response. Saved me much trouble

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Would be great if you can post a picture, and a ...

    brief job description for future reference.

    Javier

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