Front Camber Plates and Adjustable Rear Bushings

[JR'Z 525]

Greetings all, It's been awhile since I've posted. Work, kids, and home shop construction have been hogging my time lately! I need to post pics of my shop asap - it's been one I've wanted a long time!
Anyway, before I changed the springs and shocks on my car the front tires tended to wear on the outsides and the rears on the inside - pretty normal patterns for our cars as I understand. I've been on the current tires, springs and shocks for about a year now (approx 12,000 miles) and have noticed the fronts now wear more on the inside. Is it time to look at front camber plates? If so what make? K-mac, BavAuto (made by K-mac) etc? Along the same thoughts, what about adjustable rear bushings? Are any of these worth the extra $ in decreasing tire wear?
As a footnote, the usual front suspension wear items were replaced just before I changed the struts/springs so I don't think this is a factor. The rear end hasn't had any bushings replaced in my 4 years of ownership. The tires are Dunlop 225/55/16 A2's.
Thanks,
John R.

[632 Regal]

if the tires are wearing on the inside its pretty much telling you the tires are toed out and you should get an alignment.

[Hector]

The wear pattern you describe is caused by negative camber

[Brandon J]

Do not change to polyurethane strut mounts if you plan on driving the car on the street. The strut mounts take a lot of flex and the ride will be much harsher with any spring/shock combo. If you do plan on changing to sport springs/shocks, you may not need camber plates as the drop will yield some negative camber. If you decide to add camber plates, fixed are great for the street. They do add about 1/4in to the front height, but with fixed you don't have the extra harshness of the Kmacs and you don't have to worry about your camber settings changing if you hit a bump.

I noticed that when I added Dinan fixed camber plates the straight line ride was a little tighter while the turns were more compliant. This makes sense when looking at the camber angle in relation to the shock/spring. In a turn, the shock/soring is more vertical. So, if you add polyurethane mounts to the equation, it adds up to a harsh ride.

As for the rear, maybe your stock springs are a little worn and sag with weight and under load thus increasing the negative camber. Maybe sport springs will keep the rear camber from getting too negative while driving. It may just help. Also, with sport springs/shock, taking hard turns also helps even out the wear at the back Some negative camber is good for rear turning stability, that's why all BMWs have more than usual negative camber dialed in.

[bimmerd00d]

The M5 is the only one you can align the rear, in stock form at least. You have to get adjustable bushings and/or camber plates for the rear

[Mobius]

camber plates for the rear

Every time someone says this I have to compulsively ask if anyone actually uses rear camber plates - because by my figuring, with a solid swingarm, moving the upper strut mounts around can't possibly influence camber in any way.

All I can see rear plates doing is loading up the lower strut bushing and stressing the hell out of the strut itself.

Yet people still make adjustable rear plates. There has to be something I'm not understanding. :\

[JR'Z 525]

Sounds like I need to:
1. Stay away from the adjustable poly mounts due to harshness
2. Go have the alignment checked (again)
3. Keep the Kmac money in my pocket

The wear is not what I would call excessive. It's just a noticeable change and I was wondering what my options were should I want to compensate for it.
Thanks for the info guys!
John R