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Thread: Old Subject:Trans Program

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    18

    Default Old Subject:Trans Program

    I know some of you have seen this before but as long as the E34s are popular, and they run pretty much forever, I’m sure this won’t be the last post on this subject.

    About a week ago I pushed my babied 525i a bit harder then I usually do, a jerk cut me off and nearly caused me to get run over, anyway the Trans Program light came on although the car did not go into limp mode and there was no noise or other apparent problems. The light continued to come on solid ever time I drove it thereafter but the car drove and shifted fine, just that pesky light was on.

    Pretty weekend and I decided to see if I couldn't get to the cause of the lught. Gas pedal stop code test was done on the car, by another E34 owner, and there were no apparent malfunctions and he reset the system showing a code 1444, this is the only part I didn't physically see myself as I was gathering tools. Opened up the ECU cover box and removed all the relays and both connectors, cleaned and reseated all properly. Then I removed the shift mechanism cleaned and reinstalled. Hoping that the light would now be off I turned the key and nothing!!! The car will not even attempt to turn over! I cleaned the battery terminals, rechecked the connectors and relays and still nothing! I have now had the battery tested and have electrically tested every accessible relay in the engine compartment and checked all the fuses I can see. I tried to crank it both in park and neutral and no difference. The only lights that come on now are the mileage, trip indicator and a faint flashing ABS, no other panel indicator lights. Headlights, radio, fan, dome lights all work and do not dim when attempting to start the car. The only other thing I can add is that the power windows will not work in any key position.

    What have I done?? What am I missing???

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Gainesville, FL
    Posts
    549

    Default

    Sorry i can't offer any more advice, i'm sure in a moment someone will chime in with help, but if you give up theres always touching the battery leads together and attempting to reset the system. that might be a good last resort, parituclarly since your problem is so electronically based.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Try this, relay K1 is the Starter Relay. ...

    It is located in the Front Fuse Box, just besides fuse 7/8 (second relay). It should click when the range selector is in P or N and you turn the key to Run, and you should also feel a click when you move the range selector out of P/N wile the key is still in run.

    If you feel no click, just remove the relay and jump wire in the relay socket the terminals corresponding to relay pins 30 and 87. This will ignore the range selector position for the transmission, when you attempt to crank the engine (attention be sure car is in park).

    This will let you know if you have a problem in the transmission range selector switch.

    Javier

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Javier
    It is located in the Front Fuse Box, just besides fuse 7/8 (second relay). It should click when the range selector is in P or N and you turn the key to Run, and you should also feel a click when you move the range selector out of P/N wile the key is still in run.

    If you feel no click, just remove the relay and jump wire in the relay socket the terminals corresponding to relay pins 30 and 87. This will ignore the range selector position for the transmission, when you attempt to crank the engine (attention be sure car is in park).

    This will let you know if you have a problem in the transmission range selector switch.

    Javier
    Javier,

    Thanks but no luck. K1 is working, clicks when you turn to crank and clisks when you go out of P/N.

    I have seen mention on some of the board posts about a fusible link and since my windows are also not working does someone have a wiring diagram to lead me through that search? I have ordered a Bentley manual but it won’t be in until later this week.

    Richard

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    499

    Default

    Try this link to Bruno's site for more fusible link information, http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...sible_link.htm

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default OK Richard, are you sure you have the ...

    Battery in good condition, you know, working with the car, interior lights on, some music to smooth out. First time I did that, I almost have a hard attack, as got the very same issue, though I messed something while working my electrical system.

    The starter has nothing to do with the fuse link. As long as you have the K1 clicking, no fuse is between the battery and the starter motor.

    Just try to jump start crank, the easiest way is to wire bridge from pin 14 to pin 11 in diagnostic connector, see below link to identify. (Pin 14 is battery + and pin 11 is starter solenoid)

    http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/ele...ce_lights.html

    If you have no crank, you have no battery (or no starter!!).

    Javier

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default I would check fuse 17 next, i suspect you messed up something with the

    Quote Originally Posted by ExcessPlay
    Javier,

    Thanks but no luck. K1 is working, clicks when you turn to crank and clisks when you go out of P/N.

    I have seen mention on some of the board posts about a fusible link and since my windows are also not working does someone have a wiring diagram to lead me through that search? I have ordered a Bentley manual but it won’t be in until later this week.

    Richard
    neutral safety switch and the power comes from fuse 17 to the starter solenoid, so i would check that fuse first and then jumper the k1 relay with a jumper wire even though you hear clicking , a relay can click and still be bad. If you jumper it direct the starter should spin regardless of what gear its in


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Javier
    Battery in good condition, you know, working with the car, interior lights on, some music to smooth out. First time I did that, I almost have a hard attack, as got the very same issue, though I messed something while working my electrical system.

    The starter has nothing to do with the fuse link. As long as you have the K1 clicking, no fuse is between the battery and the starter motor.

    Just try to jump start crank, the easiest way is to wire bridge from pin 14 to pin 11 in diagnostic connector, see below link to identify. (Pin 14 is battery + and pin 11 is starter solenoid)

    http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/ele...ce_lights.html

    If you have no crank, you have no battery (or no starter!!).

    Javier

    Javier,

    Jumpering 14 to 11 with the key in run starts her right up but still only mileage, trip and faint ABS lights come on, also windows still do not work, and it’s gonna rain tomorrow, of course. Turn the car off and still nothing when you try to restart with the key.

    Richard

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JonE
    Try this link to Bruno's site for more fusible link information, http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/mainte...sible_link.htm

    Thanks,

    Thought that was where it was but just wasn't sure. Anyway the fusible link is fine.

    Richard

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,342

    Default Think Bill is right, you may have a damaged F17, ...

    and K1 felt clicking is coming from somewhere else. Check it carefully.

    Javier

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