Hi again.Hopefully the guys on this board will have more info for you. Did you read up on how to identify a Nikasil block on the link I gave you?
Hello all,
I have been a bmw owner since 1986. Im looking for a cheap second car to drive to work and haul racecar parts and also my 2 kids. I have a X5 4.4 for my wife (and to haul the racecar) and I also have a 2002 325it but it needs to go. Anyway, Im selling the Ee46 touring (to save some cash) and looking to buy a good cheap (under $8k) car that is reliable. I have always had BMW's and want to stay with them and was looking at the E34 tourings. I found a 94 530it with 130k miles and it looks to be a good car. My question is basically, how reliable are they? I work on my own car so little stuff doesnt bother me. Im just wondering if the motors last long since the alusil problem. I have been told that if it made it to 130k it should be fine. I dont know if the motor was swapped out but I am trying to find out. Please give me your .02 on this. The car will need to be reliable since my wife and daughters will need to use it when I am driving the X5. Thanks! Mark
PS, If you have other car ideas or a E34 wagon to sell, let me know!
Hi again.Hopefully the guys on this board will have more info for you. Did you read up on how to identify a Nikasil block on the link I gave you?
OK, as a new 530 owner, I have some first impressions. I have had the car for 2 months. I've put on 4000 hwy miles. I bought the car with 90K miles (1994). Bad idle, fixed by Derek at Nikolas Motorsports with numerous gaskets to solve vacuum leaks. However, click the search button here and look for NIKASIL. The 3.0 V8 had a block issue that, if you can, try to avoid. My car has an "affected" block, but I have not seen any evidence of poor performance. I will continue to drive the car until the wheels (or engine) fall off. Once they do, I will probably drop in a new engine and keep going. Like any other, there will be things wrong with it. Plan on spending an additional $1000-$1500 for maintenance that hasn't been done or to correct things that are wrong at the time of purchase. You should not pay more than $6K (my opinion only).
uberhahn
'94 530i 5-speed. The work begins...
Thanks Guys,
Also, thanks Mr Project for the link at bimmerforums, I did thouroughly read it. The place that has the 94 530it with 130k is a bmw dealer in Ohio (Local) and my friend is the salesman. He drove it and said the idle was rougher than most of the V8 cars and is having their tech look at it. I also forwaded the link that you gave me and they are looking into it. I should have an answer later today. If the car checks out ok, I will probably buy it. Also, it does have a small bit or rust on the bottom of each rear door that kinda bothers me but it isnt a dealbreaker since the car is cheap enough ($5000). The problem is that I sold my E46 touring and it is leaving next week. I am going to Hong Kong on business for a week and will need a car when I return so I dont really have time to keep searching. I have found a few late model Audi A6 quattros that can be had for 5-8K. That is the backup plan if I cant find a good E34 and I cant talk the wife into spending 10-15 for a E39. I guess it is fair enough since she lets me have an M3 racecar. I will elt you know later today what they find.
The v8s are quite a bit more work than the 6s. As you search for posts on ‘bad idle’ and ‘my check engine light came on’, notice how many of them concern the M60s vs the M50. Also, I find my 325 a breeze to work on compared to the 530. A 525 would have to be the easiest 90s bimmer to wrench oneself. Not counting the 535s (talking 80s technology here) and there is no 535iT anyway (and that is a damn shame).Originally Posted by Suprawin
Unless you find the small six wagon simply too slo, or are a glutton for punishment/challanges in the garage, i would think twice about a M60 equipped vagon.
"Hang up & Drive!”.....no SERiously
”Bet that phone call doesn’t seem that important now, eh?” Nov 20, 2004
YES! I still want to get that busted 525iT out of the local mechanics back lot....quick swap all my drivetrain stuff over, and I've got a nice torquey little wagon.Originally Posted by paul p (chi-town)
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I would go for that too
As far as doing your own work goes, I reckon Audi's are the worst effing cars to work on....lots of special tools and too many darn weird sensors all over the car etc.....parts can also be expensive.
However, if you DO decide to go the VW/AUDI route and you are most likely looking at the 12v motor, just ensure that it had the water pump, thermostat and timing/accessory belts and updated idlers replaced lately (and before 60k) plus regular auto tranny service.
"Uncle" Phil C
2011 Kia Optima EX-P.
Former owner of a 95 525i 5spd. "The GQ" aka A Shark in sheeps clothing
03 R1150RT 6spd. "DaRTth"
00 R1100R 5spd. "LeRoy"
Honestly i’ve been looking to replace ‘Helga’ for some time now. Gotta fix her up a bit 1st and that has to wait until i get TWO sentras parted out. *rolleyes*
My 1st choice is looking to be a Volvo 740 turbo. Just looked at one last weekend that while a little too beat up for my tastes was quite the driver (BTW not the one we looked at Ed, i knew it should have been faster). That car can move. Not to mention the engine looks quite easy to werk on, a simple SOHC 4 banger. Tons of room, both under the hood and between the bumpers.
Pump the tires up to 36 psi and the handling doesn’t suck either.
”Hang up & Drive!”.....no SERiously
”Bet that phone call doesn’t seem that important now, eh?” Nov 20, 2004
Whoah, hold on there, a 525iT shell in NE! What year? What’s messed up?Originally Posted by Mr Project
Someone should swap in a pre-OBD M3 drivetrain.
”Hang up & Drive!”.....no SERiously
”Bet that phone call doesn’t seem that important now, eh?” Nov 20, 2004