I don't have the wiring info here. Maybe at home.
The radio (head) I have drives speakers directly. I'm not sure if it has provisions for the amp. I'll check this evening.
Thanks for posting Danzee, I had pulled the amp yesterday to see if the problem is there. But before I pull it apart I'd like to test your recommendation.
How would I go about testing the lines to the amp though? There are the two connectors, that connect to the amp in the trunk. I'm assuming one is coming from the head unit and the other out to the speakers. Does anyone have the wiring diagrams for these connectors?
Also, does anyone know if the 3 series and 5 series oem head units are interchangeable? If so then, Danzee I might just have to take you up on that offer.
I don't have the wiring info here. Maybe at home.
The radio (head) I have drives speakers directly. I'm not sure if it has provisions for the amp. I'll check this evening.
on the radio system. There should be a model identification in the Cassette door, or in the radio manuals, or in the card with the security code. May be posting pictures of head unit, CD changer and amplifier would help.
Javier
My apologies for the lack of info.
Here are pictures of the head unit and amp in question;
i had a similar sounding problem with my radio. same one as yours i believe. if you hold the mode and program button ( i think) at the same time it should display the radio maker and whatnot.
anyway, my sound would cut in and out with the volume, and if i tapped it would get really loud and relaly quiet. just like someone else suggested it might be a problem with the volume knob being dirty on the insides. i took my radio apart and took the volume knob out and soaded it in alchol and WD-40 and put it all back together and it worked perfectly go ahead and get a screw driver and go to work on it. twisting the knob several 100 times didn't work for me either, but cleaning it with something strong sure did. the insides are simple and everything clicks together with minniature looking IDE cables.
otherwise you might consider either a new headunit or a whole new system. the bmw factory amp and speakers leave something to be desired.
Sorry to tell you I do not recognize this unit (Nor have specific information for it). Per the description of the failure, I do not believe it may be a blown fuse, otherwise you wouldn’t be hearing “Sometimes”. Check fuses, though, not looking for a blown one, but for contact damage or even broken (not fused) filament. A continuity meter would help. For the Hi-Fi system to work properly, you need fully operative the F18 fuse in the front fuse box and F41 in the rear (under seat) fuse box, also the 6.3 A fuse in the radio and the 10A fuse in the amplifier.
As for wiring, I suppose you have a 10 component speaker system, if my info is correct, you have two 12 pins plugs in the amplifier, one white (X606) and one black (X605, pin 4 is unused). If so, this is the pin assignment for the incoming and outgoing signals at the amplifier:
Front Left input: X606-11
Front Right input: X606-6
Rear Left input: X606-12
Rear Right input: X606-5
Left common: X606-10
Right common: X606-4
Front Left High Range spkr: X605-1
Front Left Medium Range spkr: X606-7
Front Left Low range spkr: X606-1
Front Left spkr common: X606-2
Front Right High Range spkr: X605-8
Front Right Medium Range spkr: X605-6
Front Right Low range spkr: X605-12
Front Right spkr common: X605-5
Rear Left High Range spkr: X605-7
Rear Left Low range spkr: X606-8
Rear Left spkr common: X606-3
Rear Right High Range spkr: X605-9
Rear Right Low range spkr: X605-11
Rear Right spkr common: X605-10
I would check, with amplifier plugs unplugged, using a Vac meter, or a high impedance headphone, that there is incoming signal at X606-5/6/11/12 all referenced to ground (or X606-4/10). This will confirm there is signal arriving to the amplifier. You can also check continuity at each speaker, or connect a portable radio to the different speakers to confirm they are working OK (Doubt the problem is there. Continuity check would be easier).
I would also check for 12 Vdc at X605-2 to X605-3. Also check with radio on and off, the voltage to ground at X606-9, it should go up to 12 Vdc when radio is turned on. Check also that all connections are clean.
If all is OK, then I would open the amplifier looking for evidence of loose connections or damage.
Javier
Last edited by Javier; 01-17-2005 at 10:25 PM.
Infinity5; I tried the holding mode/program simultaneously but nothing happened. I found the part # for this radio in the manual, it is 88 88 1 600 245
Thank you Javier for the detailed instructions! But I do not have a continuity or vac meter. And I believe I have the 8 speaker system, two in the front dash, two door mounted tweeters, two by the kick panels by the front seats and two in the rear dash. Unless I overlooked two of them. =)
I checked fuses you mentioned but they were all fine.
I understand your instructions but how do I go about checking the pins w/o a vac or continuity meter using the headphones method? I don't think I have a set of high impedance headphones either. I looked up the specs for a set of headphones I could use and their impedance is 32 Ohm. Is that sufficient?
How much are the vac or continuity meters? Could I buy one at a radio shack? If they aren't too expensive I may just pick one up.
Thanks again javier and all. I have alot of leads so far, now i just have to check them all and hope the problem is solved with one of them.
A Multi-Meter is a handy tool for any electrical checks, not only at the car, but also at home, I think you need it, if you want to carry out this diagnose, as I told you, it is not only to check for not blown fuses that I'm sure you do not have, but for tricky things, the things that make an intermittent fault, poor connections, broken fuse links, and so. There are different prices depending on brand and functions, mine have AC/DC voltage and Amps, Resistance with continuity bell (Ohms), Capacitance, Frequency, and also some Diode and Transistor test functions. I paid about 110 USD about 12 years ago. I think it was a cheap one as the brand is not top (Beckman). You may probably find something better at a lesser price this days (Technology is a b..). Radio Shack is a possibility, check the web though, or get recommendations from someone from the forum living in USA.
If no meter at all, and you have a portable stereo system with a "Line In" RCA input and output to speakers, you may get creative and do some sound testing, but if no sound, you will not be able to check the presence of supply voltage at the amplifier, and, for example, at both terminals of every fuse.
The headphones will let you listen for signal at desired points, just use some extra bare wires to connect, 32 ohms is low impedance but you should hear something with them. At least it will let you discard problems in the head unit.
As for the speakers, you should have 2 components (H/L) below each screen at the rear side.
Javier
I finally got a hold of a Fluke 77 multimeter. I've never used a multimeter before so excuse my ignorance. I jotted down notes of my findings. Not quite sure what to make of them though...
With the radio on and amp plugs unplugged I checked for incoming signal at X606-5/6/11/12. Putting the + probe on X606-5/6/11/12 and the - probe on X606-4.
With - on x606-4 and + on nothing = .002
- on x606-4 and + on x606-5 it fluctuated from .002 to its highest at .084
- on x606-4 and + on x606-6 it went from .002 and leveled at .06
- on x606-4 and + on x606-11 it went from .002 to .000
- on x606-4 and + on x606-12 it went from .003 to .001/.000
Then I tried the continuity check. The multimeter manual said if continuity exists it would beep continuously. The diagram in the manual shows to place the - on the "musical note" so I assumed the speaker. But I wasn't sure where to place the +. So according to the above list posted by Javier I placed the - on
Front Left High Range spkr: X605-1 (the beginning of the speaker list) and "probed" the pins with the + until I heard beeping, which was at x606-1. I then used x606-1 as the + point and tested each speaker.
Speakers x606-5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and x606 -3, 8 did not beep.
Speakers x605-1 and x606-1, 2, 7, did beep.
(I'm not sure but I don't think I may have performed the continuity check correctly.)
Then I checked the Vdc at X605-2 to X605-3 and got 12.45 on the meter. So i guess that test is good.
Then with radio on and off, I checked the voltage to ground at X606-9. I wasn't sure where to place the - so I put in on x606-4 and the + on x606-9
With the radio on the meter showed .003
I then tried placing the - on a bolt connected to the body of the car and + on x606-9. The meter showed .039.
If Javier or someone could interpret these results I'd greatly appreciate it. I probably goofed up on using the multimeter, so if anyone notices I made a mistake with placing the + or - in my results and Javier's instructions above please let me know!
Thanks all!
For incoming signals, common is the point for the - probe for each group. (X606-11 and X606-12 to X606-10, and, X606-5 and X606-6 to X606-4). The read values should vary with the volume and the balance/fader adjustments. Should have some music running (high volume best) to get the reading. Per your results, I feel the head unit is OK (Left channels were not measured properly).
For speaker continuity test, again common is the place to put the - probe, and the + probe should go trough every speaker (for each of the four groups, - probe will be in X606-2, X605-5, X606-3 and X606-10). Per your results Front left speakers are OK, check the rest using their common as stated.
Please re-check with the radio on and off the voltage between X606-9 and X605-3 (X605-3 is same as ground or body, you can verify continuity from X606-3 to car body). Head unit should be connected, amplifier unplugged to have access to the X-606/X605 contacts.
You should have 12 Vdc between these points when the radio is turned on, this is the signal telling the amplifier to turn on. If no 12 VDC there, Amplifier doesn’t turn on.
Javier