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Thread: Question - When replacing M30 water pump

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    yea but you still have a pisser that can block as it goes into the tank and screw with the system

    Quote Originally Posted by 632 Regal
    I dont know...the more that time goes on Im glad I got the optional Nikasil option. No weed no bleed.
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default I would suspect the small return line that Winfred is talking about also but

    first i would take out the plug in the thermostat housing next to the temp sensor and temp switch... You don't have to take the temp switch out , you can just remove the plug on the third hole there... and burp the system there with the key off and engine cool.. with the front end raised a little , top it off there as JR suggested..Then bleed through the bleeder afterwards with the key on engine off, heater full heat.. Then i would check the return line after that....If i can't get one to bleed usually that plug in between the temp sensor does the trick if i remove if and fill the system there...





    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch90535im
    I'll take any advise I can get and I certaintly suspected air JR.

    When I changed the coolant, I did not remove the block plug. Reason being that the radiator was only 2 months old and I had been running straight water for those 2 months until I had a chance to get by the stealer (not one in my town) and pick up some blue stuff.

    'You might try draining the system again, jack the car up on ramps, fill the system with the bleeder open until fluid runs out"

    Will coolant ever run out the bleeder hole if the front end is elevated?

    When I filled it here is how I did it - I set both heater controls to full warm, filled with 50/50 (slowly) . I filled it until overtank was full, then opened the bleed screw, filled it until coolant flowed out, closed bleed screw, warmed it up, then bled it. It did have some air at this point, but seemed to bleed OK, then topped off. Once the overheating started I bled and topped at least a couple dozen more times, and didn't see amy more air.

    When I replaced the radiator in Sept., it bled good, and ran fine until after I drained and refilled with 50/50.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    261

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    Winfred - You are a ****ing genius !!! Problem resolved.
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    261

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    Thank you also Bill R, Jr, Regal, and everyone else who offered their advice. This board is worth $millions.
    Last edited by Mitch90535im; 12-15-2004 at 09:27 PM.
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    Man take the good with the bad... When I came home for lunch today discovered that my small tool box that I had left on my back porch whild working this overheating problem had been stolen. (Dirty, rotten, punk, theives had taken a pressure wassure from the same place about this same time last year.) but worst of all got away with my 32mm Park wrench. Anyway, went out to celebrate the gact tgat tg3e car is not overheating any more, the fact that tguis eveningn at a local restrant we frequnt and the bartender gave us not 2, but 4 free dmargaritias (for Christnas he said). Damn glad the wifey w2as drivubg.,

    Thanks again for the advis3.///////// That alcoal don't bother me none. Hone, come mere, got something to show ya. Goodnight
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

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