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Thread: Fan Clutch Removal Question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    499

    Default

    On both of my BMW's I just used the thin open ended wrench from a bicycle shop, about $6 from an on-line source. On the 535 it took about 4 sharp wacks with a regular hammer while wearing gloves "righty loosey" and it loosened up. The 325iC was tighter to get at and I had to jam a tire iron under the belt on a lower pulley to keep it from spinning, got that one with about 8-10 sharp wacks with the hammer. Others seem to have more trouble getting them off. Haven't heard about the Ford tool, let us know if you try that. Sure hate to have to forge one of Jeff's Orc blades just to get that nut off!
    Good luck

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    Replaced the fan clutch ("borrowed" the tool from Autozone to hold the waterpump pulley)

    Now the bad news - the fan clutch was not my problem.

    Back to diagnostics.

    1) I believe the thermostat is OK based on the fact that the top radiator hose is hot. Is that a valid assumption?

    2) Is there any sure way to test the water-pump on while on the vehicle?
    Bentley says to take the belt off and spin and check for play. I'm not sure that is a complete test. I'm looking for a way to tell if it is actually pumping coolant.

    3) I'm going to test the aux. fan this evening. I'm really not sure if it is working or not. Question - With the air compressor on should the aux fan run regardless of whether the aux switch on the radiator is bad or not?

    4) I'm looking for someone to do a coolant system pressure test (my luck it is a head gasket) but I'm having trouble finding a mechanic willing to diagnois problem unless I'm willing to let him do the work.)


    Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

    MB
    1990 535i 5-sp., except for 16" M-Contours, cd deck, and clear corners, completely stock. 226k and running strong

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