What grade of Mobil 1 for my crazy climate?

[Jose]

cary,

I think you misunderstood me on the waiting until the engine reaches temperature and stepping on the throttle, wat I ment is what you state on point 4. I've seen a lot of wasted engines due to not warming up the engine before going full throttle. What I ment with sticky oil is, some oil brands claim they have highly protective oil on cold start ups , a thing which is hard too proof. The thing is, you can really see which oil is "stickier " to the metal parts ( especially the head ) when you do a lot of valve adjusting on M20/M30 engines. That's when ypu see what brand of oil will still be present on your camlobes even when the engine has been turned off for 24 h.

Other brands rather than Castrol tend to drop of the metal parts and leaving them almost dry while the Castrol Rs-series remains. Now thats giving cold start protection too . Cold start protection for your cilinder walls is easily solved with topping you oil level just above the max, a thing very recomendable for hard drivers out there as it helps mantaining your oil pressure up aswell.

[cary]

Sorry but you are incorrect on both counts:

1) THe effect of oil being up on the lobes is directly related to oil weight and that heavier oils will tend to stick to metal parts. The questionable benifit of ester stocks sticking to cyl walls is on a microscopic level that is not visable to the naked eye.

2) Running you oil slightly above the full mark will do nothing to protect cyl walls. It will simply cause more drag and foaming of the oil by the crank.