10W30 or 0W49 is the way to go on synthetic... Nothing dino can do better than syntetic aside from leak.
are there any benifits that reg. oil has over synthetic?
im thinking about using synthetic, but not sure what weight to use yet.
do you think 25w40 would be too thick? or should i stick with 10w40
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Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip
10W30 or 0W49 is the way to go on synthetic... Nothing dino can do better than syntetic aside from leak.
A few comments:
1) SilverZ06- You should try a heavy 30 weight like german castrol 0w-30, or Mobil 1 0w-40. There are plethera of UOA's on bobistheoilguy.com on the same motor and people have found the iron and lead drop considerably on that motor by going to a heavy 30 weight/low 40 weight. The motor just likes a slightly heavier oil.
2) Comparing UOA's from one engine type to another tells you nothing about how long you can run the oil. Different engines wear down oils at different rates. It is a function of engine design, sump capacity, driving style, driving conditions (cold, hot, short trips, highway, etc), and many other factors. You can use UOA's from the same engine with different oils to get an idea of which oils hold up better.
3) The proper oil for BMW's is the Mobil 0w-40, NOT ANY OF THE MOBIL 1 30 WEIGHTS. Mobil 1 30 weights are formulated on the thin side of 30 weight, nearly 20 weight. BMW's require an A3 rated oil (HTHS of 3.5 or greater) which the Mobil 1 30 weights are not (Thea are ACEA A5 rated oils with a HTHS of 2.9-3.5). The 0w-40 is A3 and BMW LL-98/01 approved. In fact it is the only Mobil 1 oil that carries the BMW LL approval (as well as Saab, Mercedes 229.3 & 229.5 and Porsche approval). Note that the German Castrol 0w-30 people refer to is a heavy 30 weight and because of that carries an A3 and BMW LL-98/01 approval. Same goes for BMW's own 5w-30 synthetic (it is Castrol Softec TXT oil from europe with some extra additives).
4) The benifits of Synthetic are true, but not as great as many want to believe. The primary benifits are the ability to make things like 0w-40 and 5w-40 oils that pump better at low temperatures compared to mineral oils. The second primary benifit is the the better basestocks of synthetic allow the additive packages to be stronger and hold up longer so change intervals can be extended. Where you will often see mineral oils give up at 5000-7500 miles, synthetics will continue to work well in the same motor out to 10,000-12,500 miles and sometimes further.
Last edited by cary; 10-26-2004 at 11:58 PM.
I do mobile 1 0w40 when the lights go down, which is usually about 6500-7000 mi ish
I think the last time around I pushed it a little longer due to a 2 week, 4000 mile road trip... plus its 50 bucks in parts to do the oil myself, so I don't really want to change it more than I have to.
But with the canister filter I don't even lift the car to do the oil...
Yep...
Former: 95-530iM
Current: 99 GMC Seirra 1500