Jon K: did you do your thrust arms on a lift or a jack......

[ryan roopnarine]

i rented the two items from autozone that you mentioned as getting the job done in 20 seconds, but the stock jack doesn't allow the screw on the balljoint press to clear the concrete.....i take it you did it on a lift, likely? if you did use a jack, do you have any idea what the maximum lift was on it? my hydraulic just took a dump on me (for the last time) and i need to go buy another pump jack. thanks.

[Jon K]

i rented the two items from autozone that you mentioned as getting the job done in 20 seconds, but the stock jack doesn't allow the screw on the balljoint press to clear the concrete.....i take it you did it on a lift, likely? if you did use a jack, do you have any idea what the maximum lift was on it? my hydraulic just took a dump on me (for the last time) and i need to go buy another pump jack. thanks.

stock jack is a horrible thing, dont use it. I used a craftsmen 6 ton jack, 4 jack stands lifted at 23" front 24" rear.

[bimmerd00d]

yeah, stock jack is crap. try a place called Harbor Freight if there's one near you for a good jack.

[RayC.]

What 2 tool items rented from Autozone you are referring to? I may be replacing my thrust arms soon.

Instead of using jacks would using ramps make it easier?

Thanks,

-Ray

[Jon K]

What 2 tool items rented from Autozone you are referring to? I may be replacing my thrust arms soon.

Instead of using jacks would using ramps make it easier?

Thanks,

-Ray

Look for a post I made called "Center Bearing Shot" i list the two tools i used...

ramps would work for tightening the bushings but you need to remove struts entirely to get the old arms out... so unless you know something I don't know, you definitely need to use jacks/stands. My car is too low to go up on ramps anyway.

[monkey]

When I replaced my control arms, I had no problems removing three of them. I used pickle fork. The last one (left thrust arm) was a different story. After hammering it with the pickle fork, trying to pop it free with hammer blows at various locations, impact wrench with shop air on a ball joint puller, heating up the steering knuckle with a torch and pickle fork with large hammer, all with no success, I finally removed the tie rod, and took the steering knuckle and thrust arm apart with a 55 ton press. That thing was really on there.

[DueyT]

Look for a post I made called "Center Bearing Shot" i list the two tools i used...

ramps would work for tightening the bushings but you need to remove struts entirely to get the old arms out... so unless you know something I don't know, you definitely need to use jacks/stands. My car is too low to go up on ramps anyway.

[632 Regal]

this is in the parked safety position.

extendos

ill get a pic of using it as an extendo if you just dont get it

[DueyT]

Jeff, did you drip a bolt in front of the ramp too, so it doesn't skid along the floor as you're trying to get the bronze beastie up the ramps? I'll try and find pics of my extensions...clears the front air dam nicely...definitely an improvement over the original ramp that I had to jack the car up on to...

Cheers
Duey

[632 Regal]

I have so many different holes and setups. The Bimmers is sprayed black, all I have to do is line the ramps up with the paint and drive up, no muss no fuss. Once up i slide the extendo boards to the back of the tires and drop the rear bolt in. I feel a lot safer under there that way and when I lift the rear I dont worry about the worlds commin down on me. Was always spooky before and I thought of this to chock the fronts up there without the possibility of rollback. I saw a lot of stuff happen with ramps before and didnt want to add to the statistics page. The boards are out of the way too which adds access plus the tall ramps is a bonus.