Oil Leak; I am frustrated, please help.

[Jr ///M5]

The oil pan bolts on the 525 and 535 are notorious for becoming loose due to the cork construction of the gasket shrinking. Before you tear into a gasket repair, check the tightness of the bolts with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 10mm socket with extention. Don't overtighten them, that could cause the gasket to pop out of place. Just make sure they are tight before you proceed with a gasket job. I had the same problem with my old 535 and went around the whole pan getting at least a turn and a half out of them. That stopped the leak....

Hope this helps,
Jr

[andyman32]

Bah, why such hesitation on the gasket job? Is it more complicated than I'm thinking it is? I got a new lower oil pan gasket for $14.20 from BMA. Whenever you need to change out your oil anyhow, drain the oil, take out the 20 or so bolts, pry off the pan, then slap a new gasket up there. If you're dexterous with your 10mm socket driver, it should only add about 30 minutes to the next oil change.

I must not be properly anticipating something...

[Al Gray]

Bah, why such hesitation on the gasket job? Is it more complicated than I'm thinking it is? I got a new lower oil pan gasket for $14.20 from BMA. Whenever you need to change out your oil anyhow, drain the oil, take out the 20 or so bolts, pry off the pan, then slap a new gasket up there. If you're dexterous with your 10mm socket driver, it should only add about 30 minutes to the next oil change.

I must not be properly anticipating something...

Andyman,

Here is the proper anticipation. I wish it was as easy as you described.

On page 119-5 the Bently manual lists the following procedures:
1. Drain engine oil
2 Disconnect oil level sensor
3. Remove the radiator cooling and the fan shroud (need special 32 MM wrench for left hand threads)
4. Release the drive belt tension and remove the engine drive belt
5. Remove the power steering pump and its bracket from the engine block.
6. Remove the oil dipstick guide tube mounting bolt and remove the tube.
7. On cars with automatic trans, remove the brackets that hold the ATF cooler line the the oil pand and cylinder block.
8. Remove the oil pand mounting holder and lower the oil pan to the subframe crossmember.
9. Unbolt the oil pump pickup tube from the oil pump and then remove the oil pan from the rear.

As you can see it is not as easy as taking out the oil pan bolts and dropping the pan.

[andyman32]

OHHH, okay, I see what you're talking about. Upper pan gasket. See, I was just talking about the lower pan gasket. Youch, that doesn't look like much fun AT ALL. Good luck with that one man.

Andyman,

Here is the proper anticipation. I wish it was as easy as you described.

On page 119-5 the Bently manual lists the following procedures:
1. Drain engine oil
2 Disconnect oil level sensor
3. Remove the radiator cooling and the fan shroud (need special 32 MM wrench for left hand threads)
4. Release the drive belt tension and remove the engine drive belt
5. Remove the power steering pump and its bracket from the engine block.
6. Remove the oil dipstick guide tube mounting bolt and remove the tube.
7. On cars with automatic trans, remove the brackets that hold the ATF cooler line the the oil pand and cylinder block.
8. Remove the oil pand mounting holder and lower the oil pan to the subframe crossmember.
9. Unbolt the oil pump pickup tube from the oil pump and then remove the oil pan from the rear.

As you can see it is not as easy as taking out the oil pan bolts and dropping the pan.

[Dick Schneiders]

Bah, why such hesitation on the gasket job? Is it more complicated than I'm thinking it is? I got a new lower oil pan gasket for $14.20 from BMA. Whenever you need to change out your oil anyhow, drain the oil, take out the 20 or so bolts, pry off the pan, then slap a new gasket up there. If you're dexterous with your 10mm socket driver, it should only add about 30 minutes to the next oil change.

I must not be properly anticipating something...