Uh-oh..wifey calls...rough running and CEL...

[ryan roopnarine]

check engine service will not store codes in my car unless it is driven or runs for a very long time. you saying that it stalls out before a minute or so? i'd nurse it to high idle and try to drive it around your neighborhood and see what number it comes back with. fwiw, my friend's acura 3.2 had a bad oxygen sensor (s in his case) and it would cause his idle to do what you describe of it in your latest post (although it wouldn't stall). don't know if the same could be applicable here, i have a hard time believing that the car wouldn't have a drivable idle with a dying oxygen sensor (albeit with a drop in mpg).

[billb]

did some more snooping. Checked all coils...good. Checked all coil connectors to plugs...1.8kOhms...+/-0.1kOhm...good. Checked plugs, all fouled and black, suggesting all six cylinders are rich, kind of ruling out a stuck injector. Checked all relays in E-box...good when applying 12V, they make the appropriate circuit (tested with 9V battery). Checked old O2 sensor...hooked 9V battery up to heater circuit, then held sensor over propane torch. It is going back and forth around 0.7V rapidly according to how I hold it in the flame...good. So, the O2 sensor may be good. I managed to get it out without dropping the exhaust, so I may put it back in instead of using up my new one when I get the intake gaskets installed and idle hose connector installed. Checked every hose, including those at the gas tank expansion tank...all good. Last steps are MAF and ECU...yuck...

Will keep you all posted...I'm sure you're on the edge of your seat.

[billb]

It'll actually be cheaper for me to install a new FPR than to buy fuel pressure gauge...hmmmm...lots of history on stuck FPR causing rich conditions. Let's try that route, since all the sensors check out A-OK...

[ryan roopnarine]

it costs about 10-14 to make a fuel pressure gauge. does pulling off the fpr hose still fix it at this point?

[billb]

it costs about 10-14 to make a fuel pressure gauge. does pulling off the fpr hose still fix it at this point?

Let's put it this way, I'd rather not fark around making a gauge, when the car has 120k on the original FPR...eliminate the obvious then focus on the obscure. Now if I was thinking about buying a MAF just for sh!ts and giggles, that'd be different. The only thing that "seemed" to make it run better was disconnecting the MAF connector.

[ryan roopnarine]

Let's put it this way, I'd rather not fark around making a gauge, when the car has 120k on the original FPR...eliminate the obvious then focus on the obscure. Now if I was thinking about buying a MAF just for sh!ts and giggles, that'd be different. The only thing that "seemed" to make it run better was disconnecting the MAF connector.

sorry, i was confusing your pulliing off the maf wire and it working with "someone" pulling off their fpr vacuum hose and getting it to work. my bad.

[ryan roopnarine]

may this be of some help to you.....

http://bmwe32.student.utwente.nl/sea...Regulators.htm

i think that the fuel pressure in the m70 is slightly lower per bank than in the m50......so if you'd like to do the bottle test whilst your playing around with fuel lines, it won't make you any dirtier tha you are already, and it costs you nothing.

[billb]

still loading up with MAF connected. Disconnect that, and it runs open loop, but it runs. Gonna see if I can find a local MAF to "borrow" for a test run...anyone local up for that?

Bret, you don't happen to have any down yonder do you?

[billb]

$85 delivered to my door. Who knows how long it will last, but heck, it might get us through a few more years (or not...who knows?)

So, in summary:
Stumble at idle, followed by CEL coming on briefly while driving 30-45 mph, followed by just wouldn't idle (wild surging), rich running, and code 1222 with CEL lit fully, all in a span of about 30 miles.

Checked: all sensors, all checked okay (even MAF); all vacuum hoses (replaced a few suspect with no improvement); O2 sensor (checked old one and it was working, but put new one in regardless); all relays (working properly); FPR (replaced); intake manifold gaskets (replaced); throttle body gasket (good, no need to replace); injectors (clean, sealed); expansion tank (good, no cracks, solid lines)

In the end, it took the good nature of ScottyWM to let me borrow his MAF and check that one time for sure before plunking down cash on a MAF or DME. It turned out to be the MAF.

Total cost:
O2 sensor, intake gaskets, idle air snorkel hose connector: $77.44
Fuel pressure regulator: $63.09
Used MAF: $85.00

$225.53

Brand new MAF: $300

So I learned a few things...and my O2 sensor, FPR, and intake gaskets are good for another 60k+ miles.

Thanks everyone for their help troubleshooting. Ginger's back in action.

[billb]

and in the process I swapped the original chip back in. I told Wifey she could go back to 89 octane with the stock chip in it. She said "Actually, where I fill up, they charge the same price for premium as mid-grade, so we could put the chip back in." I can't believe she was actually making an argument in support of reinstalling the EAT chip!! I have succeeded in bringing her over to the joy of performance sedans! That chip goes back in next week when I get back from the coast!

And here I am thinking of taking my chip out of my 318iS, wondering if I can get gas mileage up a bit...