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Thread: Replacing upper and lower control arms this weekend... need advice.

  1. #1
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    Default Replacing upper and lower control arms this weekend... need advice.

    I am going to try and get a tie-rod puller, but if i can't, a pickle fork will work?

    Since I am doing bother upper and lower.... should i do one at a time? I have to lower each set of 22mm nuts with the weight of the car on them. So should I do the lower control arms then lower the car, torque the nuts and then do the upper control arms? Or can I replace both at the same time, lower the car to the ground, and tighten both upper and lower control arms while the car is on the ramps? Please advise. Also, I am going to install the 3mm spring pads on the front perches this weekend, so I guess I should just remove my struts completely? Is there a way I can compress the spring enogh to slip the pads under and then decompress?

    For rear shock mounts, do I need to remove the entire spring and shock assembly from the rear? advice on that is appreciated also.

  2. #2
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    Default

    maybe have the wrench for the 22mm ground down beforehand at a machine shop? they shouldn't charge more than a couple of bucks to do it, and if you aren't dropping the entire support deal, its kinda necessary.
    "..Torchinski v. Peterson that it is legal to carry a concealed weapon, so long the weapon is totally slick like a huge ass machine gun that you carry under a trench coat, like in the Matrix."


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine
    maybe have the wrench for the 22mm ground down beforehand at a machine shop? they shouldn't charge more than a couple of bucks to do it, and if you aren't dropping the entire support deal, its kinda necessary.

    Really vague... why am i grinding a 22mm wrench?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon K
    Really vague... why am i grinding a 22mm wrench?
    because it probably won't fit on the bushing bolt unless you do.

    from friend of the board, don gale:
    http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_26.htm

    about 3/8 down the page....it might be helpful to read the whole thing though.

    here's another page from other friends of the board, sean and johan


    http://bmwe32.student.utwente.nl/sea...%20bushing.htm

    the main page, here
    http://bmwe32.student.utwente.nl/
    has instructions on how to do front and rear shocks.
    "..Torchinski v. Peterson that it is legal to carry a concealed weapon, so long the weapon is totally slick like a huge ass machine gun that you carry under a trench coat, like in the Matrix."


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Austin, Tx
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    Default

    Just finished rebuilding my suspension and steering a month ago.............Pickle fork may work. A tie rod puller won't damage the boots - scared the hell out of me when it popped!. I tightened everything, under load, at one time. Agree with Ryan on grinding the 22 mm wrench - there really is no other way without dropping the front subframe. Re. the spring pads: You are going to have take the strut apart to change the pads. On the rear mounts - you have to pull the entire assembly out of the car. Make certain that align the strut and one of studs on the new mount when you put it back together. Make certain you use new self-locking nuts for all assemblies. See the bmwe34.net web site for excellent write-ups on these procedures. Good luck!!

    Best,
    DonC

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Default That about covers it, you can drop the

    front x member if a wrench wont fit which I had to do.

    tighten upper and lower arms when done.

    dont think you will be able to get a spring compressor in there for the front pads.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

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