sounds like air, if you want to check the t-stat I think you can see it if you pull the hose and then for sure youll have air and can re-bleed it.
OK, I assure ya'll I'm as tired of asking as much as ya'll are reading them, but here goes. As winfred suggested, the TPS "woke up" and the car will start and idle fine.
After a few minutes, the temp comes up, but heads tword 3/4. I have bled it twice. (BTW, this is a M20 engine). I'm thinking that it's not trapped air because when I drive it, the temp doesn't come back down.
I noticed that the crossover pipe and the hoses at each end are cool to the touch, even after the temp has gotten to 3/4. I'm wondering if I may have put the T-stat in backwards.![]()
I sure hope not, because one of the screws that hold the cover on was replaced by a screw & nut as the hole stripped out (previuos owner). Of course, this is the one that would be nearly impossible to remove without taking the whole housing off, which may include taking the intake off again![]()
So, if you will, please indulge me again and offer suggestions. Does it sound like air or a backwards T-stat, or something else?
sounds like air, if you want to check the t-stat I think you can see it if you pull the hose and then for sure youll have air and can re-bleed it.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Thanks Jeff, I think I'll try the "blow into the radiator" method. I was thinking about removing the hose on top of the housing and look in to see what's the deal. If I look into the housing side, I should see the spring, not the "pyramid" right?
the small disc and spring goes in, drill a 1/8" hole at the arrow in the thermostat to avoid the bleeding problems
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
Thanks Jeff, I think I'll try the "blow into the radiator" method. I was thinking about removing the hose on top of the housing and look in to see what's the deal. If I look into the housing side, I should see the spring, not the "pyramid" right?
OOPS, double post
I checked, and the disk is in the housing, facing the engine. The little "pyramid" is in the cover. So, it seems as though I have it in there properly and I took your advice about drilling a hole from an earlier post of yours. However, the hose that runs from the t-stat cover, to the crossover pipe, to the hose that goes into the lower radiator remains cool to the touch.
Seems to me that the t-stat isn't opening allowing coolant to flow thru to the radiator. Could air cause this? The only other thing I can think of is, does it matter if I got the connections switched on the two sensors on the housing. I forgot to mark those when I disconnected them. Maybe I have them reversed.
I sure appreciate your taking the time to help! If you ever have any questions about furniture, I'm you man.
if it's purged of air ether the thermostat is not opening or the radiator is clogged if the right side of the radiator never gets warm, i've seen it both ways, the plugs on the temp sensors are color coded blue and brown, sometimes one of the sensors gets replaced with a black one, the other should still match it's sensor, wire length will also suggest which is which
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
I'm not sure as i have the V8 how your hoses run at the thermostat area.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I have the blue connected to the front sensor. I suspected the thermostat not opening. So, I loosened the hose that comes from the cover and coolant spilled out. So I guess it's working.
I checked the coolant itself and it's weak. Only to 10* freeze level. Could that cause it?