wack the piece that the balljoint goes through while pulling/prying on the tierod, the shock usually loosens it and it drops out (if some ******* didn't godzilla the nut on)
Ok, so I'm trying to remove the center tie rod.... self locking nuts are off, but I can't get the center rod seperated from anything (idler arm, pitman arm, left and or right tie rod)
On bruno's site there is this picture, anyone know where I can buy one of these?? And an idea of cost?? anyone want to rent me theirs![]()
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Former: 95-530iM
Current: 99 GMC Seirra 1500
wack the piece that the balljoint goes through while pulling/prying on the tierod, the shock usually loosens it and it drops out (if some ******* didn't godzilla the nut on)
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
I wacked just about everything on that center tie rod with no luck....
I'm just going to have to get ahold of that puller thing![]()
Former: 95-530iM
Current: 99 GMC Seirra 1500
my friend (& mech.) used his air hammer to drive out my center link when we replaced it. it was most definitly not coming out with just wacking at it a couple of times. i also did it in his garage with his lift.
tim s.
I'm in the same boat. Fortunately, my indy is lending me the BMW tool (#322040) this coming week. I would think the puller you show would work, but am not positive.
A few people make these tools, among them are: Hazet, Stahlwille, and Facom. Steve at The Ultimate Garage shows the Facom unit for about $65, which is far less than the Stahlwille tool, and the Hazet is more yet.
I think the Facom tool number is U.16B. Give Steve a call and see if he can help you out.
Robert Callaway
Dallas, TX
'94 530im 143k mi
'94 Land Cruiser FZJ-80 202k mi.
"If I could have back all the time and money I ever spent on cars.......I'd spend it all on cars."
OK, I've got the entire steerling linkage off EXCEPT for the Pitman Arm-Center Link. There is absolutely NO room to insert the tie rod remover between the Pitman Arm and the old center link.
I may have to grind down the tie rod tool so it's thinner and can get in whatever gap there is, AND/OR I could get in there with a Dremel and cut a groove on each side of the old center link just to get enough room for the tool to slide in and proceed to pound it in with a big f****g hammer.
Anyone done it this way? Is this PITA tight fit normal?
Thanks to all who've posted tips esp BellicoseRightWinger for the JC Whitney tool link.
Ramon/MBXB
Originally Posted by PhilipJCaputo
Ramon
1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
Tampa Bay, Florida USA
I needed a puller, heat, and BFH. If you have and i6, you can use an iron pipe and hit down from above.
Mike S.
1992 535iM black/black
1997 540iM white/gray
Retired: 89 535iA, 85 318i
<<Support your local autobahn, stay out of the left lane!>>
Originally Posted by mikemaster
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Here's pics of the tool after modification. I ground the jaws with a shallower angle and made the tips come to a sharp point. This made it easier for it to get into the tight space and grab onto the tie rod.
It worked great. You could easily center it on the tie rod.
http://community.webshots.com/slides...214&key=fAaUPa
Ramon
1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
Tampa Bay, Florida USA