Still sputter sputin 1991 e32 735i with strange idle

[Kibokojoe]

Still having problems with this 1991 e32 735i. It is idling up and down.
I have tested:
New O2 sensor
Full charge on battery
Spark plugs
rotor and rotor cap
vacuum leak
throttle body
Smoked intake no leaks
afm
fuel pressure
Clamp off evap system

I have attached a link to the video.
http://vid273.photobucket.com/albums...nny%20idle.mp4

[BigKriss]

leads / ignition wires?

[Kibokojoe]

Ohm'd wires they are good

[shogun]

I copied your thead from the 7 forum into the 5 forum, same engine and more people read here in the 5 forum.

That really sounds strange. Have you checked the fuel pump? Maybe it is going to die? At least you can check the volume like this http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/fu...Regulators.htm
Nominal data:
The M30 fuel pump is originally Bosch 0 580 464 995
operating pressure is 3 bar
conveying capcity at 12 V 1.9 liter/minute
conveying capacity against counterpressure 875 ccm/30 seconds
Power consumption is 5A

[Kibokojoe]

Checked pressure and leak down but not volume

[shogun]

download this, 7.3 MB, 228 pages, includes data for the M30 engine for testing http://www.e34.hu/service/kendtamas/XHAYNES.pdf
chapter 4, Idle air stabiliser valve - check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . 21
copied:
Motronic systems
Check
Note: There are two types of idle air stabiliser valve on these systems; early models usually have a two-wire valve, while later models are equipped with a three-wire valve.
20 With the engine running, disconnect the electrical connector from the valve. The idle speed should increase to about 2000 rpm.
21 If the idle speed does not increase:
a) Two-wire valve - Using a pair of jumper wires, apply battery voltage to the valve, and confirm that the valve closes tightly. When the voltage is removed, the valve should re-open. Also, check the resistance of the valve (see illustration
21.9). The resistance should be about 9 or 10 ohms.
b) Three-wire valve - Turn the engine off and unplug the electrical connector from the valve. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance on the two outer terminals of the valve. (see illustration). It should be about 40 ohms. Check the resistance on
the centre and outside terminals of the valve. They should both be about 20 ohms.
22 If the idle air stabiliser valve fails any of the tests, renew it.
23 If the idle air stabiliser valve tests are all correct, check the control current (two-wire valve) or the voltage (three-wire valve) as follows.
24 On two-wire valves, connect an ammeter (0 to 1000 mA range) as described in paragraph 13. Start the engine, and allow it to idle. With the engine running, the current reading should be between 400 and 500 mA. Adjust the valve if the current reading is not as specified. Note: The idle air stabiliser current will fluctuate between 400 and 1100 mA if the engine is too cold, if the coolant temperature sensor is faulty, if there is an engine vacuum leak, or if electrical accessories are on.
25 If there is no current reading, have the idle speed control unit (under the facia) checked by a BMW dealer or other specialist.
26 On three-wire valves, check for voltage at the electrical connector. With the ignition on, there should be battery voltage present at the centre terminal (see illustration). There should be about 10 volts between the centre terminal and each of the outer terminals.
27 If there is no voltage reading, have the idle speed control unit (early models) or the ECU (later models) checked by a dealer service department or other specialist.
Adjustment (early models only)
28 With the ignition switched off, connect a tachometer in accordance with the equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
29 Make sure the ignition timing is correct (see Chapter 5).
30 Connect an ammeter to the valve as described in paragraph 13.
31 With the engine running, the current draw should be 450 to 470 mA at 700 to 750 rpm.
32 If the control current is not correct, turn the adjusting screw until it is within the specified range. Note: Turn the idle air bypass screw clockwise to increase the current, or anti-clockwise to decrease the current.
-------------------
Not sure if that is applicable to your engine, just for info

[632 Regal]

Check and clean the ICV - disconnect it to see if that is the culprit first.
https://www.dvatp.com/bmw/icv_ccv

Sounds like it is opening and closing trying to maintain an idle. I never heard anything run like that on a car. Lawnmowers and stuff that do that are due to a lean condition.

Couldn't find anything besides this where the car is running when they adjust the AFM:


https://youtu.be/MTnB5X4lURk