Tickety Tick Tock

[genphreak]

Swapped everything from Nikky before I sold her. MAf computer boxes etc. Even the 3:64 rear gears. Nothing changed. No backfires, can tell them when it gets cold if it's the intake gaskets. plugs look good, non-gapable type. Been through it all, not an intake leak issue. The motor pulls a bit harder than my sons 328 at the time. However this current engine as I mentionsed does not pull until 4000 rpms (4200) and then it is weaker than Nikka. Engine should start to pull before 4K in my opinion. Engine has all the 3.0 garb, intake the small one, throttle body the small one, intake and even the airbox intake is the small 3.0 same as Nikka.

Also considered the oxy sensor and the FPR? And btw 'non-gappable' are all gappable if you try. I usually compare the old to a new one out of the box before doing anything- they do wear and sometimes people fiddle with them without knowing what they're doing. I've seen some that have been dropped on one side- and it doesn't show unless you check them very carefully, esp if you wear glasses- though I wouldn't have said that before I had to get a pair for seeing things near me more clearly, LOL...

There is a solution somewhere. You must not expect obvious symptoms, codes thrown and so on for something that is causing power loss at high rpm.

[632 Regal]

Also considered the oxy sensor and the FPR? And btw 'non-gappable' are all gappable if you try. I usually compare the old to a new one out of the box before doing anything- they do wear and sometimes people fiddle with them without knowing what they're doing. I've seen some that have been dropped on one side- and it doesn't show unless you check them very carefully, esp if you wear glasses- though I wouldn't have said that before I had to get a pair for seeing things near me more clearly, LOL...

There is a solution somewhere. You must not expect obvious symptoms, codes thrown and so on for something that is causing power loss at high rpm.

There is a plain power loss across the board. Not only high rpm.

Recently I am getting a slight miss, when warm its ticking so low oil pressure is to blame. When cold we are also getting a miss. I only checked a couple plugs when I got it and the bolts for the coil packs were galled so I didn't check further since it was very smooth. Might JB weld all the galled ones and put ground straps but since I haven't had time to get into there it's all a guess now.

Hoping there is something stupid going on in there. Need to finish some loose ends as in the e46 i'm trying to turn plus other stuff and I'll chow down on this E34. Not sure of it's name yet as I might off it and get a fresh one... It just isn't personal to me like Nikki was.

[genphreak]

There is a plain power loss across the board. Not only high rpm.

Recently I am getting a slight miss, when warm its ticking so low oil pressure is to blame. When cold we are also getting a miss. I only checked a couple plugs when I got it and the bolts for the coil packs were galled so I didn't check further since it was very smooth. Might JB weld all the galled ones and put ground straps but since I haven't had time to get into there it's all a guess now.

Hoping there is something stupid going on in there. Need to finish some loose ends as in the e46 i'm trying to turn plus other stuff and I'll chow down on this E34. Not sure of it's name yet as I might off it and get a fresh one... It just isn't personal to me like Nikki was.

I sure KWYM; my projects take years instead of weeks. be sure chk the exhaust gaskets too- they are often re-used during replacement :-p

Surely B30 should generate better power down low (dyno chart) but to maintain 'bahnability' they always leave room for power up-high. There is a solution somewhere- and certainly checking the cams sounds reasonable. Just don't expect obvious symptoms, codes thrown and so on, what causes slight loss at high rpm will probably hide itself well.

As ever, Good luck with the ol' girl. It sounds like she has some work to do to grow on you.

And good luck too choosing one sell-out of a gubmint over another. I thought our gubmints were bad here in Oz, where the mining companies run the joint. Over there, it seems its energy is just one group alongside the money, the lawyers and the weapons companies. If we didn't have to vote here, very few would. I think it was Woody Allen that said; 'The choice seems to be between misery and desperation and total oblivion. I just hope they choose wisely'.

[632 Regal]

I will see if I can pull the PCV plate off the intake, if it has bolts or torx. I know with torx the intake has to be pulled which is a big deal with no backup vehicle.

Have the E46 ready to pull the front subframe off to replace it. Making an engine hold bar or whatever they're called so I can work under there for a few minutes. Finished welding some brackets for it and got too smokey to stay in the garage.

Spooky on stands in a sloping driveway so I stuck a few wheels under to hold the car up, much safer but I just don't care to crawl around under things like this especially with an engine floating above my head.

[genphreak]

I will see if I can pull the PCV plate off the intake, if it has bolts or torx. I know with torx the intake has to be pulled which is a big deal with no backup vehicle.

Have the E46 ready to pull the front subframe off to replace it. Making an engine hold bar or whatever they're called so I can work under there for a few minutes. Finished welding some brackets for it and got too smokey to stay in the garage.

Spooky on stands in a sloping driveway so I stuck a few wheels under to hold the car up, much safer but I just don't care to crawl around under things like this especially with an engine floating above my head.

Hell yea tell me about it. The more cars I park in my driveway the further down I end up working, and the steeper the 'workshop floor' gets :-) Evolution may just claim me one of these days! With the PCV plate, they are T30 torx or 5mm allen (can't remember, sorry) so use one of those small mini ratchets to remove them in the minimal clearance. But you can reach over the engine easily enough with the overflow tank lifted out of the way (no need to empty it) and feel the two ports that are supposed to be blocked, the factory caps have little plastic lock rings which twist on like bayonets to jam the cap around the pipe. These are almost always lost/mislaid after which the caps just blow off if they have not already crumbled. BMW don't sell them AFAIK. You can get aftermarket silicone caps 1mm smaller and just squeeze 'em on tight... see below:

I don't think new PCVs come with the caps or the locking pieces either to make things worse.

[632 Regal]

Remember when a new guy called it a cyclone valve and a bunch of people got on his case he was a nube? Pook kid.

[genphreak]

Remember when a new guy called it a cyclone valve and a bunch of people got on his case he was a nube? Poor kid.

Ah hah, yes, those cyclone valves, they didn't last long, were superceded by magnetic fuel polarisers!

Here's a couple of pics of mine from an angle we don't normally get :-)

The red one is a 6mm silicone plug, below it is a big one, which is an elbow with a big plug. That is something like 10mm diameter (?) and can go bad too.

And, there is another place to check: On the front of the manifold, beside the Throttle body plate, there's another big one to check for cracking/loss.

[632 Regal]

Got all my cheap chinese gaskets and plate. The PVC plate says Bapmic Germany so it's made in China for a German company... no clue man. Been looking this stuff up and it is possible to just replace the diaphram and cap without removing the entire PVC plate. Waiting on my #30 torx to see if I can loosen the bits and be on my way. (old #30 is less than desireable) Rather remove the plate because of the amount of oil in the intake so I can soak it out. The old removed plates that I have seen are always encrusted with crud and old oil. If all else fails I have a complete gasket kit for less than 20 bux US.