fixed VANOS w/Beisan's...perfect..est drive... half way through blew head gasket??

[632 Regal]

No obvious signs leads me to think I screwed something... don't know what... up.

I can't see how the vanos repair could cause coolant into the oil.

[RobPatt]

Well, I think I've figured it out.

When I did the vanos repair, somehow... I was also removing the airbox. Don't remember why.
And removing the coolant hoses from the aux thermostat, one of the plastic hose nipples broke off.

And.. while removing the valve cover, the breather hose was in really bad shape.
And I traced the breather hose to the metal coupler, where it continues on to the air intake book... this half of the hose was also soaked in oil, completely gummy, and pretty well shot.

With the aux thermostat unusable b/c one hose had no place to connect (nipple broke from the tstat)... I decided to connect both those coolant hoses together.
HOWEVER, after examining my photos (the incorrect install... ) I see that the breather hose from the metal coupling to the air boot... was connected to the coolant line going TO the airbox (that's the coolant line from the head, under the intake manifold.)

So at some point... I guess when the thermostat opened... OR when the VANOS repair was just chillin and great... I got on the gas and the little M50 just sucked down a whole motor full of coolant... right through the breather hose...into top of the valve cover.

****
However.... everything's good now... I think.
Head checked out fine... they shaved .005 off to flatten it out. The gasket didn't blow. Valves seated and sealed perfectly.
So now the head is all clean, cams, in everything timed...

ALL new coolant hoses (one part ordering) (except the ones from the heater valve)... and ALL NEW VACUUM LINES....

And she runs even better than ever!! YES!! Did it all in my garage w/my 12 year old son.. some references (below) and an occasional text message to BMW Biloxi man when I got desperate....

What a learning experience!

Much thanks to this board.... tech articles at Pelican Parts.. the Bentley Manual... and my new buddy here Cory in Biloxi at his little unadvertised 'eMW mecca.

HICCUPS encountered:
- leaned on or against the brake resivour... grommets now leak fluid and need to replace them.
- put the valve cover on... then realised I couldn't get the metal clips on the power clips of the fuel injectors... crap.
(temp workaround, zip ties... since I used aviation gasket and oem vc gasket I wasn't eager to remove the VC...for that in case I had to remove it again due to a timing, lifter, or other issue...)
- took 3 tries to get the stupid (upgraded to metal) t-stat housing seated... I'd fill up with water, and she'd leak out... actually took four if you count that the first time I forgot to put the t-stat in at all.
- intake cam vanos sprocket/shim/diaphragm assmebly nuts.... they're only threaded on the studs to the top of the nut... the stud does NOT extend past the nut. I have the anti-rattle diaphram now... 2mm shim, the diaphram.. then the 4mm shim AND the longer studs and new nuts... but when I tighten the nuts down more, you can't turn the sprockets... I had them oiled up good, etc... so I may need to relook.. perhaps I had the primary tensioner hand tighened TOO tight? or perhaps that's just how the nuts are and I need to go back and put some locktite on them...? Thoughts?
- lifter tick was HORRIBLE... but settled down after about 30 minutes idle... shut off overnight... added 1/2 quart OVER the fill line... then it went away. I was really concerned about this, but seems a non issue now. Have cheap 5w-30 in it because I'll drain and fill soon with good oil if the chocolate milk is gone.

I think that's about it... just followed the procedures, lots of internet research on coolant and vacuum lines...
A BIG MISTAKE on my part....

Enjoy some pics.. Great project, feel really confident about the guts of these motors... and mine was clean to start.. even cleaner now.
Cheers,
Rob.

[RobPatt]

Before.

[RobPatt]

After.

[RobPatt]

The little scratches on the lifter... just wear from 180K miles... I guess.... I didn't want to spend the $$ on 24 new lifters if I didn't need to.

The scratches on the head surface around the hemi areas... that was my stupid overzealous cleaning with the 3m rubber nubby wheel I used on the block... I didn't realize it was scratching so much and wanted to shoot myself... hoping the copper coat gasket stuff will flow and seal into that area... I put it on the head and on the block side of the head gasket... combined w/a composite gasket... HOPE it holds a good seal.

In the engine bay pic you can also see the new vanos oil line... mine leaked at the lower swage (or whatever you call it ) fitting...

****
Total bill? About $630 for anyone pondering the project or don't have a choice. Breakout roughly:

@ AutohausAz - parts $416
head gasket set $130
head bolts $15
aux thermostat (at airbox) $50
brake booset check valve $35
misc hoses, fittings, exhaust mani nuts, etc.

@ Sears
metric universal socket set 1/4 drive $12
something else for $6

@ Lowes
misc 19 and 32mm wrench, 24 pc metric socket set, 10mm deep socket $50

@ Autozone
Valvoline 5w30 oil, 2 gallons $40
engine degreaser, MAF cleaner, $10
assembly lube $6
VHT engine enamel paint - cast iron color $7
universal socket adapter set 1/4 to 3/8 to 1/2 etc $4
water wetter $8
brake fluid synthetic 2 cans $9 (cuz I busted the grommets)

@ Napa
Brake cleaner
3M rubber nubby for drill to clean block and drill attachment $40
aviation permatex $5
CRC copper coat $5

total approx $630

*******
About all I already had were basic sockets.
A set of 1/4 drive is great for the small stuff 10mm etc in the alu head.
A headlamp (for your head) is awesome to have.
Great overhead lighting in your garage.
Plenty of pans to catch oil, coolant, etc.
Some good music... and a cool garage (no WAY could I have done this in the summer in South Mississippi... it was in the 50s here most days)
Ziplock bags and a marker to label EVERYTHING... impossible otherwise.
Laptop in the garage... CROSS REFERENCING directions from several sources.... Everyone explains things differently.. I guess I'm a little thick headed, so after a few different explainations of the same thing... I was ready to go... and it went without a hitch. PLUS... one person will include a minor nuance that someone else leaves out... so read EVERYTHING.

If you've read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance... remember in the latter pages the part about Gumption Traps. I ran into a few.. but I knew I was getting into them, and knew when it was time to step away, regroup, think clearly.. and a-ha... insight "try it this way"...

Cool stuff.

DOING THIS DOES NOT MAKE ME THE EXPERT.... so don't read as I am. I'm just posting in hopes this can help, or encourage, someone... somehow.

(..remember... I got into all this mess b/c I fixed my vanos, and like a moron connected a coolant line to my breather hose... (at least I think that's what I did)

Cheers and thanks ED for the awesome BIMMER.INFO !!

-Rob.

[whiskychaser]

Have I got this right? You connected the throttle body heater hose to the valve cover? :-( If so, let's skip that one and say you have done a remarkable job of cleaning everything up. When its all back together you can be rightly proud of the work you have put in

[632 Regal]

Fantastic job! I am so relieved that you figured where the coolant came from. When I went over the procedure I just couldn't figure any reason that would explain it. Anyways you did a fine write up and great pictures.

[93 525 Paul]

You...have done a remarkable job of cleaning everything up. When its all back together you can be rightly proud of the work you have put in

Couldn't agree more.

As a guy who made a much simpler and worse mistake and ended up refreshing the M50TU engine and building the tranny, I am happy you stuck it out. I never captured the spirit of zen mechanical repair in any of the posts in my rather long repair thread, but I hope you've read it.

When I first saw your post I could not for the life of me guess what had happened. Very glad you got it sorted and she's back on the road. I totally and completely relived my ordeal reading about yours. Congrats. Good stuff.

[RobPatt]

Thanks for the kind words gentlemen. Paul, yes, I followed your thread and thought of my situation... work, kids, sports, life, etc. Thankfully the E34 was "aside" and could be a bit of a project... And then I had to make a decision to modernize, and probably get a 4 door VW Golf GTI or TDI... or put a little love and money into the BMW. Kids were like "ah dad..." you gotta keep the BMW. So at least for the next few years.. ALTHOUGH I'm really liking several of the E30 M50 swaps in the classifieds here and at r3vlimited... (used to have an 87 325is)

Anyway, a few more questions.
-in the FIRST pic... I broke the vaccum 'nipple' off my brake booster check valve... so I replaced it w/a new one. In the process destroyed the brittle hose that went from it to the manifold. The pressure flows FROM the booster, through the one way valve, into the manifold... I've temporarily replaced it with some scrap coolant hose. QUESTION - do I need a high pressure hose here? If I do... do I also need the upgraded one-time use style hose clamps that were on there?

ALSO... please see my fuel lines running to the metal tubes under the manifold... I had these cheapo hose clamps on hand... are they sufficient?

Thanks...

Only issues left:
- Yesterday she died on me at a light, check engine light came on... restarted and that's it. No CEL, nothing from stomp test.
- The vanos or chain started making a mild grinding sound... I replaced the 2 chain tensioner/guides on the head (while I was in there)... and the spring and "inner sleeve" on the primary tensioner... it wasn't grinding at first... but seems to be coming on... what should I check?
- Today I started smelling fuel... guessing it's an injector leaking from the rail (i pulled one to replace the o-rings, and decided not to mess with the other 5 injectors... there must be an o-ring lube.. man it was hard to press back in.)

THanks and ,
Rob.

[shogun]

To push in the injectors use vaseline or lube the O-rings with engine oil. Otherwise it is easy to damage the O-Rings.