Stalling

[632 Regal]

Have you checked under the power distribution box (under the back seat) for water ingress? This can cause annoying electrical troubles.

+1 the leaky sunroof gave that one away!

[Ferrett 1962]

Ok here is the latest info, changed the filter today and while fuel flowed out the input side it glugged out the other side and looked cloudy but after a drive to the shop all was well and the car pulled great all the way it died on the way home but unlike last time it cut out it tried time and again to start even manageing a rough idle for a couple of minutes before stopping again. I gave it quite a while to cool down in case it was heat related and again it tried to start over and over, firing after a few seconds only to run rough for a while failing to rev at all and then stopping. This went on for almost two hours and I finally called a tow truck who said they would be about 20 min or so, while I waited I tried again and after rumbling away suddenly almost with a click it settled and ran without a hitch so I risked it and drove off and although it burped a couple of times I got home safe. The strange thing is I went out 20 min later and tried, it started and ran with no hint there was anything wrong at all, I will check under the seat tomorrow but it is looking more like a sensor gremlin . I looked where I thought the crank sensor was but could see nothing I thought it was on the exhaust side I think behind where the aircon pump is can someone tell mhere to find it and the connector so I can check if this is the problem (stage two)

[urpin]

It's located behind the thermostat housing.
The plug end is difficult to get to.

[Tiger]

Definitely CPS... no doubt. Get a bright flashlight and you can see it.

[ScottyWM]

I don't know, but does this sound like the MAF symptoms? Seems like I've seen a few guys that had this kind of intermittent problem that turned out to be the MAF.

[Ferrett 1962]

How much has to be removed to change it out and where do I find the part number on real oem? I have looked but don't know which section it is under.

[Ferrett 1962]

Ok I will try the CPS I just have to find where the plug is I can see the sensor but the wire goes down under the intake manifold and from one diagram plugs in down there (I think) do I have to pull much off to find it, I called a guy in Sydney and he said the part number is 12141730027 but Pelican and Real give me 12141726066 so I think the best action is to remove the old one and get the part number off there first to be safe. Have been quoted $223 from BMW here but will have to wait two weeks as they are on backorder, the guy in Sydney was $195 for aftermarket part and has in stock (at least the part he said it was) or order from US for around $80-$90 including post + waiting time. Once I know the part number I will get from US I think seeing I have to wait to get from dealer anyway.
Three mechanics I have spoken to said they would put money on CPS as problem but if someone can tell me how to test I will try that first to avoid throwing money at ghosts.

[Ferrett 1962]

Ok I think my car has both crank and cam sensors, should I order both from US plus intake seals and just do the lot in one go to be sure what is what, at least I would know all is right there and check for vacume leaks at the same time. Please any info on how to check would be good and how best to get to the plugs so I know what to order.

[Ferrett 1962]

Sorry to keep posting the same question but I have the new crank sensor on the way and just want to ask again where the connector sits under the intake, if I know where I am reaching for I can work on taking out only what I need to to reach it. If I cant reach it with my hands the wife might get to do something new, she has small hands but does someone have a picture of it while they were working on the manifold?

[Ferrett 1962]

Ok I got the CPS out, not too hard just took my time and didn't force anything. I checked the resistance and it was 504 but the car starts and runs well until it has been at operating temperature for a while and then fails so I carefully heated the sensor and checked again, it was 580 and climbing, still not as hot as it would be stuck to the front of the motor, should it change that much as it heats up or should it stay the same? The testing instructions do not say to test only when cold so does that mean it makes no difference and my readings say the sensor is failing with heat. Further to this I tried heating again, the first time it was warm to touch but this time I went a bit further, more to where the engine would get it to, I held it not in but a good 6 inches above a flame until it was too hot to hold but well below where it would melt the plastic part above the sensor the reading was 650 well out of range. I watched the meter drop one point at a time as it began to cool but only time will tell if this was the problem now I wait for the new part.