Tools and techniques to replace steering links

[RobPatt]

I'd like to replace my drag link, tie rods, idler arm, etc and do so in my garage. (car is near 200K miles)

What, if any, special (but readily available) tools would make life easier?

What about techniques or tips would make it easier?

What about any things to watch out for?

Thanks much.
Rob

[Tiger]

Big hammer... like 32oz... and the right size pickle fork... small one in our case. If a couple of strike doesn't dislodge it, then flip the fork the other way. There is only one position or so that will allow you to swing hammer wide.

[RobPatt]

uh, well... that's just too easy... I've been dreading this, but maybe not necessary.

[sal_park]

idler arm

Hi,

(from memory, so might be slightly wrong)
before you remove the idler arm you should measure it's vertical position to the cross member and compare this to the steering box arm. I believe they need to be the same.

hth

sal

[genphreak]

Most important thing is a long handle on your breaker bar to handle the steering arm bolts. Other most important thing (for the novices) is re the ball joints (the hardest bit). One must put a good amount (but not too much) pressure on each joint when tightening the joint puller (claw, Eg. don't bloody break it)! Then sharply hit the arm (not the joint) **hard** with a 4lb hammer to 'spring' the joint loose from the press-fit its been embedded in for 10 years or more...

Get the car up good and high, take plenty of safety precautions (2012 may not be our last year)... and accept a few donations of good luck before you start (Eg. stock up on beer!)

[MBXB]

+1 genphreak

After initially putting tension on the joint, I used a heat gun to warm up the joint, then whacked it with the hammer. Popped out every time.
This is an old trick from my BMW R90S alternator removal days.

[leicesterboy15]

^^ + 1

I did this job a few months back, its just a nuts and bolts job, nothing really to look out for IIRC. What I did was to remove the tie rods from the steering plates on each wheel then unbolt the idler arm from the crossmember. Then you can attack the final balljoint which attaches the centre tie rod to the steering arm from the steering box. This one was the hardest for me, clearance is bad and I recked the balljoint boot - not a problem if you are replacing the centre tie rod as well which I was.

When you put it together attach the idler arm loosly to the crossmember first then fit the centre tie rod and finally move on to the outer tie rods, I found this the best way.

I used a scissor type ball joint remover because I found it easier but as posted above if you heat up the joint first it will make your life much easier. You can use a kitchen blow torch or a paint stripping gun, you don't need to get it glowing! I got a kitchen blow torch, it was very cheap and it did the job!

Also the higher you get the car the easier the job but stay safe! Use stands and put the wheels you have removed under the car.