GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: any tips on removing the zf 4hp22 gearbox?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

    Default any tips on removing the zf 4hp22 gearbox?

    I have to remove it to put a new engine on it. The engine and gearbox is out of the car, but are there any tips before I get my hands dirty and try and pull it off?

    here are some pics

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...19446399529042

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...19837967579714

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...19837967579714

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

    Default

    Okay I removed it with the Torque converter attached to the flywheel

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...40180005494866

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...40089814163714

    You remove 3 bolts holding onto the flex disc first through the hole (seen)

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...40671634211090

    Part number 5 - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...29&hg=11&fg=20
    Last edited by BigKriss; 11-05-2009 at 11:43 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    485

    Default

    Kris, why did you remove the TC from the tranny and bolt it to the flywheel/drive plate?

    This will complicate re-mating of the bell housing to the engine, and perhaps endanger the tranny pump while jostling & aligning the engine/tranny into fit position.

    When I unbolted my engine from bell housing, I left the TC attached to the engine drive plate, and pulled the whole works straight forward under a hoist. This was a mistake and may have buggered the tranny input shaft, but in any event I had lots of trouble mating the TC to the input shaft/pump when I had the bell housing bolts in. Having done this, I then went back and read Bentley correctly, as well as factory manuals posted by Shogun, all of which I should have studied before I touched the first bell housing bolt.

    In retrospect, I sure as hell wish I'd left the TC mated to the tranny, and unbolted it from the drive plate via either of 2 access holes in the engine and oil pan for that purpose. With your whole engine and tranny out of the car, this is a piece of cake, whereas in the car it's more work.

    Given where you are right now, I suggest taking the TC off the engine, make sure it has proper fluid level, then make sure it is properly mated to the tranny, a two step process. First, it slides sort of into place, with those slots on the rear TC tube mating. At this point, you may think it's mated. It may or may not be, so rotate it back and forth, with some pressure aftward, and see if it slides another ~1/8" aftward. Then, rotate back and forth some more to make sure.

    But, while apart anyway, replace that seal. Cheap and easy where you are right now.

    And, had a chance to check the wiggle room on that input shaft yet?
    Dash01
    '90 535ia 272K miles

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

    Default

    Hi Dash01, there is a maximum of 2mm of play on the input shaft. That maximum was checking in all directions.

    I didn't remove the TC from the tranny and bolt it to the flywheel/drive plate?. I unbolted the 3 bolts from the flex disc first (as seen in my 2nd post) and then I removed the trans. The TC stuck to the flywheel but it was still unbolted from the felx disc (engine drive plate).

    I've replaced the input and output drive seals. I've watched some videos on youtube on how to install the TC. I will try and make sure I do it properly.

    I just have to use some sandpaper on the TC bearing to remove some light scoring.

    Okay

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

    Default

    I put the TC back into the tranny, I just kept on turning it clockwise and pushing it in untill it wouldn't go any further. them the bellhousing hooked up to the engine and then finally I put did the 3 bolts that hold onto the flex disc, I used 240 grit wet and dry sandpaper and lightly rub down the TC converter hub. I dont have a pic of that. The engine and trans are now ready to be put back into the car.

    Here are some pics;

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...49226774013986

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...49561221780706

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...49680972939730

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Kristian...49878506259650

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    429

    Default

    thx for the picture.

    cool to see a good looking engine..

    you doing all this work alone?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

    Default

    Yes mate I do it all alone with hand tools but when removing or installing the engine I get my dad to help. I think you need at least one other helper and a fre outher helps in keeping things like the wiring out of the way.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan View Post
    thx for the picture.

    cool to see a good looking engine..

    you doing all this work alone?

Similar Threads

  1. 2 4HP22 repairs
    By shogun in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-26-2010, 11:51 AM
  2. Rebuilding a ZF 4HP22/24
    By Mordan in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-11-2008, 09:27 PM
  3. Tips for Removing Bumper Strips?
    By Chris in Laguna Beach in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-03-2005, 03:42 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •