Rear springs and rear headrests

[whiskychaser]

Yeah I know a strange combination but you cant remove the second without the first :
Bentleys doesnt mention them but you cant take the backrest off without removing the headrests. Dont be tempted to use tools - they just pull out!!
Then twist the two slotted screw heads in the trim 90 degrees and they pull out. A £2 coin works well so again no tools required. If you have removed the 6 nuts from the bottom of the seat back it just needs lifting up and forward.
With seat back off you can now get at the 3 x 13mm nuts on top of the shocks. The bottom one is 22mm. What Bentleys doesnt say is that the bottom of the shock fits into the hub and will be stuck. I replaced the bolt and using a 4" gear puller on the bolt head, pulled it free in seconds. I hasten to add this was after a WTF? moment. I admit to ringing my good friend
e34.535i.sport ostensibly to commiserate with him on his Jag problems but also to find out how he did it

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Where were you two years ago when I had to retighten the sloppy rear shock top nuts?

Took all day to figure out the plastic headrest trim. But the ///M rear sport seat didn't make it any easier to figure it out either.

[genphreak]

You forgot to mention a few steps form the official procedure;

1. Remove headrests, seat as you say
2. Pull pillar covers
3. Pull rear shelf
... then you can get at those shock supprt bolts.

BTW: Make sure you replace those shock supports, else you'll be going in again. They are **always** gone if the shocks are... and will cause the shock to fail tests I imagine, (but not leak) since they hold the shaft in place.

The bottom one is tight but not bad for some, I think salt water+age causes the worst of it- particularly if the last person to pull it didn't replace it

[whiskychaser]

You forgot to mention a few steps form the official procedure;

1. Remove headrests, seat as you say
2. Pull pillar covers
3. Pull rear shelf
... then you can get at those shock supprt bolts.

BTW: Make sure you replace those shock supports, else you'll be going in again. They are **always** gone if the shocks are... and will cause the shock to fail tests I imagine, (but not leak) since they hold the shaft in place.

The bottom one is tight but not bad for some, I think salt water+age causes the worst of it- particularly if the last person to pull it didn't replace it

Had enough room to get a socket in and remove the 3 nuts on top of the shocks without removing the pillar covers or shelf. Glad I didnt read the official way of doing it

[e34.535i.sport]

Haha for once my 'try removing by force first, think later' method paid off with the headrests

I admit to ringing my good friend
e34.535i.sport ostensibly to commiserate with him on his Jag problems but also to find out how he did it

LOL! Glad you got it sorted Colin and anytime - The number of times I've rang you I need to get you on speed dial

I'm going back in on the Jag soon as i'm feeling up to it I've decided... I was going to put it into a specialist but I just can't knuckle under

Oh and I think the battery has had it I borrowed a battery-charger pack, hooked it up and tried to fire her up... click click click was all i got

[whiskychaser]

Haha for once my 'try removing by force first, think later' method paid off with the headrests
LOL! Glad you got it sorted Colin and anytime - The number of times I've rang you I need to get you on speed dial
I'm going back in on the Jag soon as i'm feeling up to it I've decided... I was going to put it into a specialist but I just can't knuckle under
Oh and I think the battery has had it I borrowed a battery-charger pack, hooked it up and tried to fire her up... click click click was all i got

I like the 'modification' to the fuel rail. Big hammer or little hammer?
A couple of things you may not have come across or I'm sure you would have said:
I was careful to put the springs on so the ends fitted right up to the rubber 'buffers' top and bottom. First shot at inserting the top of the strut was bang on - but the bottom was about 20 degrees out As the rear tops dont swivel its out with the compressors and adjust by rack of the eye. I guessed the stub on the bottom of the strut would be in the same plane as two of the bolts on top and this proved to be correct.
That done, the suspension wouldnt drop (foot assisted) low enough to connect the bottom of the shock.
With the spring in place you cant get 2 compressors on it. I took a chance and used one. That gave me the extra 1/4" I needed. Just have to remember to tighten the bolt when its on the ground
Next job is replace the disc and pads and repeat same on the other side. Then its front brake hoses....

[e34.535i.sport]

I like the 'modification' to the fuel rail. Big hammer or little hammer?

Haha little hammer... I thought it best to leave good old 'lumpy' out of it seen as i broke my original rail with a simple spanner


It's interesting that you had difficulty making the arm drop low enough to get the lower bolt on and had to reapply the compressors (PITA! ) because i've heard others say the same ... I got lucky I think but then again i was standing on the wheel hub and i'm not exactly 'light' haha

[whiskychaser]

It's interesting that you had difficulty making the arm drop low enough to get the lower bolt on and had to reapply the compressors (PITA! ) because i've heard others say the same ... I got lucky I think but then again i was standing on the wheel hub and i'm not exactly 'light' haha

The fronts were no problem but the rears were 'reluctant' to go back in. The arm will only go so far:-) Were yours lowered? In which case I'm guessing they would be shorter and not cause the problem?

[e34.535i.sport]

The fronts were no problem but the rears were 'reluctant' to go back in. The arm will only go so far:-) Were yours lowered? In which case I'm guessing they would be shorter and not cause the problem?

Yeah second time round they were lowering springs but when i changed the mounts originally it was the stock springs/struts... Bizzare!

[whiskychaser]

Yeah second time round they were lowering springs but when i changed the mounts originally it was the stock springs/struts... Bizzare!

The top mounts are all in very good condition and its clear somebody has been there before.
Just put the n/s on and had absolutely no problems dropping the arm. I can only guess the cv joint knuckle was in the wrong plane on the o/s. Or maybe it was the way I was holding my mouth? Ride height is identical both sides at 21.25". Thats an inch high but it hasnt any weight it in yet