Touring Q: Changing out the rear hatch struts

[genphreak]

G'day all,

The struts on my '95 touring are all shot to hell, so neither the tailgate, nor the window, stay up when opened.

The (unique) tailgate struts on a touring run at about $110/pair and the hatch/glass ones are a lot less. If I acn get them all off I could get them recharged and save a heap, so I was having a look at how to swap them out...

The tailgate struts are easy as they are external- ie their fasteners locate within the hatch-jam. However the hatch/glass struts recess back into the roof cavity and look to be another story as there seems no easy way to get to their retainer clips.

I hope this story doesn't have a 'BMW process manager's' ending, but when you end up back on the forum for advice, it usually does. Here goes...

I've already removed the interior panels to see if there is internal access to the strut retainers (duh! Zat vud be too easy mwuahahhhahaa!).

All I can get to are two big bolts on each side which probably locate the tailgate hinges and would allow one to remove the whole hatch. Now I'm guessing here, but it looks like one could remove them and take the whole hatch glass, hinges and all off with a couple of helpers. (Mental note; get beer!)

Has anyone done this before and could help me get this planned?

Q1: Once the hinges are free of the body, does the whole hatch slide out? I wonder how one should deal wth the wiring harness - do you have to remove the harness first?

Q2: Since there are two harnesses and they require dissassembly of the hatch to remove, I expect they are part of the procedure Since the mesh sheath around each harness needs repair, I want to do this anyway.

Q3: Is it easier than it looks? (I know it sounds naiive but I had to ask as this all looks a whole lot harder than it probably sounds)

Of course I am hoping not...

[leicesterboy15]

I'm not sure about the window struts but I've done the tailgate ones, make sure you renew the bolt with the round head that the bottom of the strut fits on to and buy the clips that hold the struts on to the bolts. When I fitted the new struts I realised the old round bolts were shot, the helpful dealer never told me about this or the fact that I would need new clips so it took 3 trips to them to get all the parts.

[genphreak]

I'm not sure about the window struts but I've done the tailgate ones, make sure you renew the bolt with the round head that the bottom of the strut fits on to and buy the clips that hold the struts on to the bolts. When I fitted the new struts I realised the old round bolts were shot, the helpful dealer never told me about this or the fact that I would need new clips so it took 3 trips to them to get all the parts.

Ah yes, one of mine is indeed rusted and worn. The knuckles have to be well greased and face wear and contamination in that location, if worn they fail allow the strut to slip off... so I better get 2 new ones- thanks!

[ScottyWM]

NO!! You don't have to remove the hatch to get to the window struts. And yes, it's easier than it looks. If you search for posts by me you should see a procedure to do it. Many of us tourings have done it. What looks like the hard part is the ball/socket connection that is back inside the roof. This is obscured from view by a rubber boot that prevents water ingress (I guess). You stick a big long (12"-14") screwdriver past the rubber boot and leverage the strut UP off of the ball. It actually pops off pretty easy once you get it. I have to go right now, but if you can't find any posts about it, let me know.

[leicesterboy15]

Ah yes, one of mine is indeed rusted and worn. The knuckles have to be well greased and face wear and contamination in that location, if worn they fail allow the strut to slip off... so I better get 2 new ones- thanks!

exactly what happened to mine, I thought it was the strut as it was like that when I bought it, I only found out later that it was the bolt!

And don't forget those pesky clips!

[genphreak]

NO!! You don't have to remove the hatch to get to the window struts. And yes, it's easier than it looks. If you search for posts by me you should see a procedure to do it. Many of us tourings have done it. What looks like the hard part is the ball/socket connection that is back inside the roof. This is obscured from view by a rubber boot that prevents water ingress (I guess). You stick a big long (12"-14") screwdriver past the rubber boot and leverage the strut UP off of the ball. It actually pops off pretty easy once you get it. I have to go right now, but if you can't find any posts about it, let me know.

I've been in there but must have missed it. Thanks Scotty. I'll check it out and hopefully do it. Then I'll post some pics to show just how right you are... with any luck!

Thanks for giving me some hope... :!

[ScottyWM]

I can't find my original post how to do this, it was before this forum went to the new style, and I can't seem to access the archives. But here are the Bentley pages dealing with the strut replacements. It's not very in-depth, but should get you started.

Well damn, it won't let me attach files larger than 19.5kb. I'll send you an email with the pages 337-339 from the Bentley.

[genphreak]

After taking a look down there it seemed a remote place to go messing with such clips. However I've enough experience with them these days and am sure I can get it with a good enough torch. The knack with them is usually angle and care with an ever so slight twist. Important putting them back in tho is to ensure the clip engages in the location shoulder on the spigot- armed withthese ideas I should prevail. It is seems a bitch mostly because the hatch has to be held open whilst one does it... so I can imagine not being able to get it. However your report that it is possible with a long screwdriver gave me hope of being able.

I couldn't get to it today with all the relatives here... otherwise would have been back raving about the result. I've got a Bently Scotty, to be honest I feel pretty dumb about the old rag, I often forget to consult it if the matters aren't electrical or mechanical. Look forward to reporitng in a week or so...

[GJPinAU]

You have a Touring as well?!

[Bo525i]

What I did when I changed mine:

I used a 20 inch long pipe in slightly larger diameter than the new glass hatch struts, made sure that the struts were sticking out like 2-3 inches, slightly compressed the metal with the strut inside the pipe to make sure that the strut wasn´t able to slide inside or turn when attaching it inside the body.. Worked really well, took me 10 mins to change both hatch struts with this instrument!

And I used the same pipe to get the old ones out!