M30 valve ticking

[Kibokojoe]

Take the bar off the car, but you will have to replace the crush washers on the banjo bolts. I made my own on my metal lathe with aluminum. I also made these lockdown brackets out of brass. With these no way for the bolts to back out

Ahh yes the dual chamber mod, Ive been contemplating doing that to mine. Did you take ur bar off and do the mod our of the car or whilst it was still in the car?

[bubba966]

This really works, although there is still some clicking the noise has really diminished quite a bit.

What type and weight of oil are you using? I've found different oils increase or decrease engine noise. Mobil 1 one has increased noise over standard dino oils in my experience. And have had Amsoil decrease noise over standard dino oils. Changing from Mobil 1 to Amsoil makes a significant drop in engine noise.

[Kibokojoe]

Amsoil.....I will give it a go and let you know

[Ross]

Tried the rocker cam adjustment and it sounds better but still sounds like a sticking valve. I also put in new plugs with some antiseize copper grease, still makes noise. I have another M30 in my 535i and it doesn't sound as bad as this one

Since you've tried adjusting at the lobe and the noise persists I'd suggest tightening up the lash a couple thou. If you aren't used to how the lash should feel double check by trying to insert the next size feeler gauge, if it fits then too loose. Cam position is critical also.
An M30 will begin to idle poorly if you tighten up the lash too much. They are sensitive to lash and I have always found it difficult to get the proper balance between noise and idle quality.

[bubba966]

Amsoil.....I will give it a go and let you know

I'm fond of their 0w30 in my M-Sport (182k miles) & '79 Chevy truck (250k+). Their 5w40 European Formula is nice as well if you don't care to drop the $ on the 0w30. Have used that in a '95 M50 (150k), '93 S38B36 (92k), A '95 Miata (145k), and a few other vehicles.

I'd probably just put the Euro formula in at the next oil change if I was you.

[Kibokojoe]

Hmm I thought I was at the limit now. Yes I tested the gap .009 go .010 no go (rocker/cam). I am afraid to go any smaller, won't there be reprocussions besides rough idle?

[632 Regal]

if you go too tight the valve heads can burn off due to no cooling when the valve is supposed to be closed.

Hmm I thought I was at the limit now. Yes I tested the gap .009 go .010 no go (rocker/cam). I am afraid to go any smaller, won't there be reprocussions besides rough idle?

[whiskychaser]

if you go too tight the valve heads can burn off due to no cooling when the valve is supposed to be closed.

x1.
Read somewhere 75% of the heat goes through the valve seat. So if it doesnt close properly you can end up with something like this:

[Ross]

if you go too tight the valve heads can burn off due to no cooling when the valve is supposed to be closed.

X 2
But if not too loose then what else? No hydraulics on an M30.

[whiskychaser]

X 2
But if not too loose then what else? No hydraulics on an M30.

Doubt our friend wants to take it apart to find out exactly It probably is just wear but a weak spring could be causing a valve to bounce?