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Thread: Centre Tie Rod... Anyone had success?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott C View Post
    e34.535i.sport

    I looked the list of things you changed - where did you tighten the steering column nut? - I strongly suggest doing that before you order your center link!
    Symptom is slop in steering and clunk when moving wheel back and forth while not moving. It is an easy fix, takes only time.

    Scott
    I didn't but I holla'd to see if anyone can explain to me in absolute laymen's terms how to do it because I just don't really understand what to do! If you could give me some pointers it would be MUCH appreciated believe me!!! Thanks in advance!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  2. #2
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    Really really impatient to find out how you adjust these steering column nuts...

    Someone please help!!!

    I wish I was of average intellect so I could comprehend the explanation on Bruno's site...
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport View Post
    Really really impatient to find out how you adjust these steering column nuts...

    Someone please help!!!

    I wish I was of average intellect so I could comprehend the explanation on Bruno's site...
    Do you mean the gland nut at the bottom of the steering column inside the car? Post the link and I will try to translate

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    Do you mean the gland nut at the bottom of the steering column inside the car? Post the link and I will try to translate
    LOL - I don't even know that! I have read what partly seems to be about the nut we spoke of briefly... But I'm sure people are suggesting there's one inside the car under the steering column too... A big one!

    I sure hope you translate English as well as you do German!

    Here's what I've been going off... http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...e=Steering+box This explains how to adjust the nut you showed me on your car that time... But I'm still unsure of how to actually do it... Do I loosen the nut right off then tighten gradually whilst checking the heaviness of the steering do you think?

    What about this 32mm nut?

    I must be easily confuddled.
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport View Post
    Here's what I've been going off... http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...e=Steering+box This explains how to adjust the nut you showed me on your car that time... But I'm still unsure of how to actually do it... Do I loosen the nut right off then tighten gradually whilst checking the heaviness of the steering do you think?What about this 32mm nut?
    You may be better looking at this page:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...=Steering+play
    Do the adjustment with the wheels on lock, not straight ahead. The steering box adjuster is a bit like doing a tappet - just a screw and a lock nut. Most important thing is to mark where the screw is now - you can always back it off to that mark if it all goes pear shaped. Undo the lock nut, tighten the screw a couple of minutes of the clock. Hold the screw firm, retighten the lock nut and check the steering isnt binding. The 32mm nut is at the bottom of the steering column inside the car. (Like the article says, grab the shaft above the steering box and wiggle it to see if you can feel any play first) The panel with the 'bong' in it will have to come out for you to see it. Dont overdo tightening it as that will cause the steering to bind too.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    You may be better looking at this page:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...=Steering+play
    Do the adjustment with the wheels on lock, not straight ahead. The steering box adjuster is a bit like doing a tappet - just a screw and a lock nut. Most important thing is to mark where the screw is now - you can always back it off to that mark if it all goes pear shaped. Undo the lock nut, tighten the screw a couple of minutes of the clock. Hold the screw firm, retighten the lock nut and check the steering isnt binding. The 32mm nut is at the bottom of the steering column inside the car. (Like the article says, grab the shaft above the steering box and wiggle it to see if you can feel any play first) The panel with the 'bong' in it will have to come out for you to see it. Dont overdo tightening it as that will cause the steering to bind too.
    Wo - That link makes much more sense! The one I found wasn't so clear... Feel like a muppet now but what's new...

    The tappet thing now makes sense too... I'll use tip-ex or something I think to mark it... Really want to give it a go, should improve the steering as there's definitley play somewhere.

    Just one more question, what panel are we talking about with the 'bong' in it?! I tried to take the big plastic cover off the steering column but it was having none of it... If I pulled any harder it felt like something was going to snap!

    Thanks for the link and the help!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  7. #7
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    [QUOTE=e34.535i.sport;321060]
    Just one more question, what panel are we talking about with the 'bong' in it?! I tried to take the big plastic cover off the steering column but it was having none of it... If I pulled any harder it felt like something was going to snap!

    Thanks for the link and the help! [/QUOTE

    Tried to take a pic but you can see sfa so this might help:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...59&hg=51&fg=30 Sorry its for LHD - use a mirror?
    The panel you remove is part 10 (right above the pedals) but you might need to remove part 2 to get at it. If so, the bonnet release handle will get in your way but its only a big x-head screw. There is a heater duct behind the panel and it should be attached on the left side as you look at it. So go gently!

    i've always found the 32mm nut to be too stiff to move(unscrew) before
    I wouldnt slacken off the nut, just tighten it if its loose and be careful it doesnt bind. May be wrong but I think it works like a cone so backing it in and out would be a pain to get it 'just right'
    Last edited by whiskychaser; 03-03-2009 at 07:37 AM.

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=whiskychaser;321068]
    Quote Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport View Post
    Just one more question, what panel are we talking about with the 'bong' in it?! I tried to take the big plastic cover off the steering column but it was having none of it... If I pulled any harder it felt like something was going to snap!

    Thanks for the link and the help! [/QUOTE

    Tried to take a pic but you can see sfa so this might help:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...59&hg=51&fg=30 Sorry its for LHD - use a mirror?
    The panel you remove is part 10 (right above the pedals) but you might need to remove part 2 to get at it. If so, the bonnet release handle will get in your way but its only a big x-head screw. There is a heater duct behind the panel and it should be attached on the left side as you look at it. So go gently!

    i've always found the 32mm nut to be too stiff to move(unscrew) before
    I wouldnt slacken off the nut, just tighten it if its loose and be careful it doesnt bind. May be wrong but I think it works like a cone so backing it in and out would be a pain to get it 'just right'
    You're the man... I was trying to get the platic off the upper part of the steering column as if I was going to hotwire it! LOL!

    I might have a go tonight if it's light when I get in. I'll let you know how I go!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

  9. #9
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    awesome explination there. i need to muck around with this myself. i've always found the 32mm nut to be too stiff to move(unscrew) before

    Quote Originally Posted by whiskychaser View Post
    You may be better looking at this page:
    http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-inde...=Steering+play
    Do the adjustment with the wheels on lock, not straight ahead. The steering box adjuster is a bit like doing a tappet - just a screw and a lock nut. Most important thing is to mark where the screw is now - you can always back it off to that mark if it all goes pear shaped. Undo the lock nut, tighten the screw a couple of minutes of the clock. Hold the screw firm, retighten the lock nut and check the steering isnt binding. The 32mm nut is at the bottom of the steering column inside the car. (Like the article says, grab the shaft above the steering box and wiggle it to see if you can feel any play first) The panel with the 'bong' in it will have to come out for you to see it. Dont overdo tightening it as that will cause the steering to bind too.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigKriss View Post
    awesome explination there. i need to muck around with this myself. i've always found the 32mm nut to be too stiff to move(unscrew) before
    Sorry guys, was out of touch. Yes, this is a great picture in the above link. I finally adjusted this after futzing about a bit with everything else. It is hard to turn but I turned mine quite a bit. If I had it to do over, I would have turned it so much that the telescoping column would stop working

    Don't touch the steering box freeplay until you tighten this column nut, you will be wasting your time!

    Removing the panels (front lower face and bottom above feet) is somewhat tedious but will go from memory. Remove the wood trim (if you have it). Remove the screws that are visible, there are 2 on each side of the column at the top. There is a black plate on the right side (center computer) that pops off (at least on my car with the trim) and exposes some screws - remove them. Then attack from underneath. There is also 1 (maybe 2 screws on the left side (US car) that are accessed by removing the decorative trim (not sure name) that goes around the door opening. The bottom panel then comes off with screws that are pretty visible.

    Once you get that done, tighten the nut. I would suggest driving a day with the panels off. Then tighten again.

    Scott
    Last edited by Scott C; 03-03-2009 at 07:26 AM.
    1995 BMW 525i w/139K miles, EAT Chip - (Gone)
    07 525i 22K, 07 328xi (41K)
    1982 Mazda RX-7 w/147K miles (Back again!)

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