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Thread: This post is my last and final effort.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    259

    Default This post is my last and final effort.

    This is it... I'm about ready to either drive this thing off a cliff or take the time to part it out.

    This post is my last and final effort.

    I replaced the cylinder head (and a lot of other things including injectors) and put about 200 miles on it already. But yesterday morning the timing belt somehow slipped a few notches. Engine stalled when I hit the clutch.

    Would not start again, here is a video of it cranking:
    http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...08937022&hl=en

    I took it apart and reset the timing back how it should and tensioned the belt again. Put everything back together and it won't start.

    • Spark is good.
    • Fuel pressure is good
    • Spark plugs are wet
    • My batched compression test read 100 psi so at least we know there is compression.


    EVERYTHING is as it should be.

    I have gone through two batteries on 12 hour charges cranking this thing. With full throttle down, RPM gets to about ~500 and won't any higher. I get a periodic "put" "put" "put" so there is ignition someplace but the damn thing won't start.

    This happened to me before, I believe its flooded but it would eventually start but I don't know now.

    Is there anything I can inject into the vacuum lines or cylinders that will fire it up?

    Just something to burn that excess gasoline (if that's what it is..)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
    Posts
    4,243

    Default

    Doesn't sound like it's got any compression.
    A jumped t-belt usually means bent valves. This one sure sounds like zero compression to me
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Yeah that video is before the timing was reset back to normal. It had no compression because the timing was all off.

    Its reset back to normal now. I suspect that if there were bent valves I would not even get 100 psi since the valves would be still open even in the closed position.

    It even holds pressure over extended time.

    Lets give that the benefit of the doubt.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
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    Default

    I'm going to try starting fluid.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default

    To me, it does sound like you've got compression in the video.

    IF you've set the timing properly (and after doing it a number of times, I trust you have), the plugs are wet, you've got spark, then it may just be flooded. Have you dried things up, waited etc.?

    If you want to start fresh, pour the starting fluid on all the seats and the rear shelf, that aught to do the trick

    Keep us informed,

    Dave

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M View Post
    To me, it does sound like you've got compression in the video.

    IF you've set the timing properly (and after doing it a number of times, I trust you have), the plugs are wet, you've got spark, then it may just be flooded. Have you dried things up, waited etc.?

    If you want to start fresh, pour the starting fluid on all the seats and the rear shelf, that aught to do the trick

    Keep us informed,

    Dave
    I disagree, in the video you definitely don't have compression, If you have the cam timing where its supposed to be, and if you didn't bend any valves, (unlikely) then i would pull all the plugs, dry them off and squirt a small amount of oil in each cylinder, then reinstall the plugs and try to start it


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Gateshead,UK
    Posts
    926

    Default

    If you try all the above and it still won't start, then as a last resort you could try dragging it along and tow starting it (if it's a manual g/box). These M20's are prone to flooding when cold. I've experienced bore wash a couple of times over the last six years and that results in near zero compression. Even the E30 auto I took my current cyl head from did this trick so I got it cheap cheap cheap.

    BTW I don't think you can drive it off a cliff as it won't erm... drive?!

    HTH,

    Shaun M
    Last edited by E34-520iSE; 02-05-2009 at 12:13 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    Default

    BTW I don't think you can drive it off a cliff as it won't erm... drive?!

    Ow!
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
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    Default

    OK well here are the results from the starter fluid effort.

    Sprayed it onto the seats.
    Sprayed it onto the air filter.
    - No start. No effect at all.

    Sprayed it into the throttle body while cranking the engine
    - No start. No effect at all.


    I have to go to work now... Thing is that I have a spare cylinder head with all the parts and valves. But to have them installed + a new head gasket set and new head bolt set would be very expensive. About $400 more give or take & ~2 more days of work.

    On top of all that my rings are bad. What am I going to do


    Quote Originally Posted by E34-520iSE View Post
    BTW I don't think you can drive it off a cliff as it won't erm... drive?!
    Thats a good point, I'm going to have to think that over.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Gateshead,UK
    Posts
    926

    Default

    Next time you try the starter fluid, pull out the idle control valve to get a bit of fresh air in there. There's obviously plenty of fuel about but it needs air too.

    Good luck,

    Shaun M

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