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Thread: List of Factors for Fuel Consumption

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine View Post
    hells yeah. the 99 taurus will jump 10 psi at the rail if the fuel filter is questionable. i think that for the filter to be an issue, the owner had to run it really low/out a couple of times which forces the crap to be picked up from the bottom. even if i don't let it run down, once every 6 months I change the filter, and it makes a big difference.
    I thought the fuel filter was rarely in need to be changed compared to a diesel filter.

  2. #12
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    Default I've seen a few clogged filters, its pretty rare, doesn't

    affect gas mileage, doesn't cause overrevving. With a plugged filter the car will idle fine, it will just starve for fuel under load , such as high speed. It will effectively limit the speed of a car.
    The last really plugged one i saw was a toyota cressida that wouldn't go over 60mph, just not enough power to go faster. The filter was so plugged up you couldn't blow through it.

    Ryan, think about it for a minute, the filter is long before the fuel rail,if the filter was plugged the pressure at the rail would drop rather than raise.
    And the fuel pump pickup is always sucking the gas off of the bottom of the tank so anything on the bottom is getting sucked up all the time not when you run low or run out of fuel.


  3. #13
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    by the way

    does an old differential increase the fuel consumption?

  4. #14
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    Default Regardless of what others have said , a good

    O2 sensor frequently does improve gas mileage. I see it all the time.
    A sensor thats old or bad reacts slower and often has larger sweeps when you graph the voltage of one. When you watch the o2 sensor on a graph its obvious which one is an old one and which one is new. And the old story of cleaning them out with a torch isn't true either. If in doubt replace it.

    Other things to look at for fuel economy is the rolling resistance of the tires themselves, that can be a 5% variation in economy depending on the tire. Consumer reports typically lists the rolling resistance of any tire they test. A few other companies are starting to list the rolling resistance of each tire they make.

    Making sure that none of the brakes drag even slightly will help improve mileage, If the calipers aren't retracting then the pads drag slightly and that adds up, Checking the differential oil and using the lightest grade that is acceptable will help, check CV's at the rear axle for any binding or drag, same with the wheel and axle bearings, make sure the center bearing on the driveshaft spins freely, make sure the emergency brake shoes retract and don't add to drag. Check tire pressures.

    Fuel pressure , make sure the injectors are clean, plugs gapped correctly, temperature sensor functioning correctly, air filters clean, Don't forget that the 10% ethanol gas used in the winter in a lot of places causes mileage to drop 15 to 20% minimum.... and on and on.. Make sure the fan clutch is disengaging when not needed. Make sure the A/C compressor isn't turned on , On some cars a dirty maf will make it go lean off idle causing you to depress the gas more which hurts economy.


  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    O2 sensor frequently does improve gas mileage. I see it all the time.
    A sensor thats old or bad reacts slower and often has larger sweeps when you graph the voltage of one. When you watch the o2 sensor on a graph its obvious which one is an old one and which one is new. And the old story of cleaning them out with a torch isn't true either. If in doubt replace it.

    Other things to look at for fuel economy is the rolling resistance of the tires themselves, that can be a 5% variation in economy depending on the tire. Consumer reports typically lists the rolling resistance of any tire they test. A few other companies are starting to list the rolling resistance of each tire they make.

    Making sure that none of the brakes drag even slightly will help improve mileage, If the calipers aren't retracting then the pads drag slightly and that adds up, Checking the differential oil and using the lightest grade that is acceptable will help, check CV's at the rear axle for any binding or drag, same with the wheel and axle bearings, make sure the center bearing on the driveshaft spins freely, make sure the emergency brake shoes retract and don't add to drag. Check tire pressures.

    Fuel pressure , make sure the injectors are clean, plugs gapped correctly, temperature sensor functioning correctly, air filters clean, Don't forget that the 10% ethanol gas used in the winter in a lot of places causes mileage to drop 15 to 20% minimum.... and on and on.. Make sure the fan clutch is disengaging when not needed. Make sure the A/C compressor isn't turned on , On some cars a dirty maf will make it go lean off idle causing you to depress the gas more which hurts economy.

    Do products like Lubro Moly's Jectron or Lucas Oil's Fuel Injector cleaner work enough or are you tallking taking them out and cleaning then ?
    1995 540i Manual build 1/95

  6. #16
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    Default The only injector cleaner that i've had any results with in the

    gas tank is the BG44k, otherwise i've had ok results with seafoam and the otc injector cleaners on my on the car injector cleaner, which runs either straight concentrate or 50/50 depending on the brand of concentrate i'm using in the injector cleaner.

    Some cars don't even respond to that and i end up pulling the injectors and having them cleaned or replace them with some off the net.

    I ordered a set of the ford ones cleaned and flow tested for 45.00 on ebay, since i was stupid enough to let my fuel pump gunk up and the gas tank to rust up. I guessed that the injectors would be the same so i ordered a set and pulled them yesterday.





    Quote Originally Posted by Jehu View Post
    Do products like Lubro Moly's Jectron or Lucas Oil's Fuel Injector cleaner work enough or are you tallking taking them out and cleaning then ?


  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    gas tank is the BG44k, otherwise i've had ok results with seafoam and the otc injector cleaners on my on the car injector cleaner, which runs either straight concentrate or 50/50 depending on the brand of concentrate i'm using in the injector cleaner.

    Some cars don't even respond to that and i end up pulling the injectors and having them cleaned or replace them with some off the net.

    I ordered a set of the ford ones cleaned and flow tested for 45.00 on ebay, since i was stupid enough to let my fuel pump gunk up and the gas tank to rust up. I guessed that the injectors would be the same so i ordered a set and pulled them yesterday.
    in my search to improve fuel economy I found this polish product which reads like a miracle

    http://www.ceramizer.com/content/view/36/43/

    it is **** scaring if that works. after running 600km your engine compression are like new ??????!?!?!
    it also have additive for the gear box and differential...
    thx for the tips Bill about the CV and brakes... I will have to check that. I just jack the car and turn the wheels listening for noise?

  8. #18
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    Default Don't listen for noise, look for drag, more so than what

    is normal... which is hard to describe if you haven't spun a lot of wheels or axles unfortunately.
    I wouldn't bank on that ceramizer working though....



    Quote Originally Posted by Mordan View Post
    in my search to improve fuel economy I found this polish product which reads like a miracle

    http://www.ceramizer.com/content/view/36/43/

    it is **** scaring if that works. after running 600km your engine compression are like new ??????!?!?!
    it also have additive for the gear box and differential...
    thx for the tips Bill about the CV and brakes... I will have to check that. I just jack the car and turn the wheels listening for noise?


  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R. View Post
    affect gas mileage, doesn't cause overrevving. With a plugged filter the car will idle fine, it will just starve for fuel under load , such as high speed. It will effectively limit the speed of a car.
    The last really plugged one i saw was a toyota cressida that wouldn't go over 60mph, just not enough power to go faster. The filter was so plugged up you couldn't blow through it.

    Ryan, think about it for a minute, the filter is long before the fuel rail,if the filter was plugged the pressure at the rail would drop rather than raise.
    And the fuel pump pickup is always sucking the gas off of the bottom of the tank so anything on the bottom is getting sucked up all the time not when you run low or run out of fuel.

    i didn't make myself clear about that. one day, when the car wasn't running for s@iat, i hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the rail and saw that it was about ~20 something. a new fuel filter put it back to where it was supposed to be (iirc 30~ at the schrader). i know when it is going bad because the car will start to act in a pecuilar manner while cresting hills (and at the bottom). the bottom is actually where it starts sputtering almost imperceivably. i can't explain why a <20 year old car is choking on fuel filters, it isn't carburetted, but it does it, and the filter has resolved the problem every time.
    "..Torchinski v. Peterson that it is legal to carry a concealed weapon, so long the weapon is totally slick like a huge ass machine gun that you carry under a trench coat, like in the Matrix."


  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine View Post
    i can't explain why a <20 year old car is choking on fuel filters, it isn't carburetted, but it does it, and the filter has resolved the problem every time.
    What is in your tank that is trashing your filters? Or are you pumping the trash in from old gas station tanks?

    It is probably time to take a look inside your gas tank to see what there is to see.

    Brian

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