hood painting part II - (photos!)

[tim eh?]

ok, so i know this looks really really awful...


... but the grill looks awesome!

don't really have any questions, but tips are always appreciated...

sanded the [expletive] clearcoat with 800 grade s/p.





...have enough paint for maybe 2 coats... hope it takes to that crap...

[tim eh?]

after 1 coat i'm not sure...



after 2 coats i'm still not sure...







... stay tuned!

[Derek A.]

Maybe you should have fixed that dent in the leading edge before painting eh ?

[Tiger]

Absolutely... don't know why you skipped that. Bondo is quite easy to do.

[632 Regal]

he can still fix it and redo the paint stuff and it will still look better than before. He did the sanding, after the dent repair he can resand it and then do final 1200 grit and probably buff it by hand for a shine.

Absolutely... don't know why you skipped that. Bondo is quite easy to do.

[tim eh?]

he can still fix it and redo the paint stuff and it will still look better than before. He did the sanding, after the dent repair he can resand it and then do final 1200 grit and probably buff it by hand for a shine.

plan is 1500 then 2000 then buff is that nuts? that's what i did on the grill... difference is the grill was new.



wait... there's a dent?


j/k ... the dent actually could serve a purpose...

1) draw attention away from the lousy paint job

2) who wants to steal an obviously non-mint 525i?

3) my car wouldn't be the same without it... i kinda actually like it...

that said... if this paint job actually works, fixing that dent (no rust there btw) in the spring will be easier than peeing in the pool, and by then my mistakes will have come through and i can fix those too, and who knows how many gravel trucks i'll get stuck behind this winter...

i'm trying to learn a technique that i can continue over the years, so the dent's no big deal (there were plenty of dents that i did bondo)... the rust was the main thing i wanted to deal with.

i do appreciate the comments guys, honest, any criticism will give me a better idea of where i'm at. i take it that's 2 thumbs down and one undecided... well that's actually very motivating...

[Dave M]

If it helps, I'll give you 3 thumbs up for being so gosh darn honest and open for critisism. Oh, and I couldn'd do any better. I HATE (and hate is a strong word) body work.

Dave

[tim eh?]

If it helps, I'll give you 3 thumbs up ...

you have three thumbs???? (...thanks, moral support does help). if i wasn't honest about it i wouldn't get jeff's uber helpful pointers.

so... ho... hum... did a test spot as i think i have enough paint left for a retouch or two but not a whole coat and i wanted to see it first. (also i think this could be our last day in 2008 above 14'c) looks like the clearcoat is being a bitch...






1500 is too hard on the fingers after a retouch i think i will try 1200 or 1000 instead and then go over it with 2000, but i'm not optimistic with that clearcoat there...

[tim eh?]

Q- the stuff in the can isn't the same as the stuff for the stick, they have different consistencies, but it comes out the same in the end.
anyone know what the difference is?



another test spot pic... dunno what that tiny bluey-white patch is, some kind of reflection not a flaw.

[632 Regal]

white smokey haze in a clear coat is moisture and/or trapped volatiles, especially from painting in too cold of environment. you can use a faster reducer (cheap clean up stuff) but if its real cold you get the results you get. It may clear up after time.