How to set / adjust the self-leveling suspension?

[Panzer Captain]

I was changing out the swaybars and a couple other components --- now the SLS apparently needs to be reset. The back end of the car is way high, and the car rides very stiff, as if it's fully-pressurized at the back.

What do I have to do to reset it? I read about the process in the Bentley, and it talks about loading about 600lbs, IIRC, into the back of the car while the rear wheels are off the ground, etc etc.

Can anyone explain this in simple terms?

Or am I better off just taking it to the dealer and leaving it in their "capable" hands... ?

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Do you replace the SLS lever on the new sway bar...is so just reposition it.

If not...that's where you'll need to start

[Jr ///M5]

Look here:

http://www.bmwtis.com/repair/main/74...es/7410937.jpg

This should help point you in the right direction.

JR

[Panzer Captain]

Do you replace the SLS lever on the new sway bar...is so just reposition it.

If not...that's where you'll need to start

I did not "replace" the SLS lever (as in, buy a new one and install it) --- but I did attach it to the new sway bar.

Thanks for the TIS picture - that does help some.

Is it true that you have to put 600lbs in the back of the car??!? I don't have 600lbs to put in it.

[leicesterboy15]

Man that looks complicated! My rear sits too low (so to speak) relative to the front, I didn't know you could adjust the default height on SLS, this might raise it slightly but then again I've been told SLS is not to be messed with - if it ain't broke don't fix it!

[shogun]

The ride height is adjusted to a predefined height (distance from the
edge of the rim to the edge of the wheel well) with the pre-defined
weight in the trunk. Both values can be found in the TIS.

Here is a trick from my own experience that should make the job easier.

You should loosen the lever on the stabilizer so you can change the
adjustment. If you move the lever forward, in the driving direction, you
also move the lever on the control valve forward and the result should
be an increase in ride height, in reverse, moving the lever backwards,
should result in a decrease of the ride height.

First thing to do after a repair is to remove all the air from the
system. You should raise the car with the wheels hanging free and the
engine running, move the lever fully in the ‘UP’ direction and let it
sit for 5 to 10 minutes. You should repeat this perhaps 2 to 4 days.
Driving also aids in the removing of the air. The air collects at the
top of the shock absorber which then in turn is removed by the previous
procedure on the car lift.

The only way I can tell, in my opinion, that all the air is gone is by
repeating the above procedure, It took 4 days before I felt the car was
stable again in cornering and driving, and I did not have sudden changes
in characteristics.

After a few days you can adjust the ride height. The lever on the
control valve has in the center ( ‘0’) position, vertical, a small dead
zone in the ride height control between raising and lowering the rear.
You should check the center position carefully. One should slowly move
the lever a little in the direction to raise the rear and listen
carefully for the sound of flowing hydraulic oil. Small movements of the
lever cause large changes.

The trick is to adjust the ride height (with the prerequisite extra
weight in the trunk) exactly at the point where you can hear the
hydraulic fluid flow. You probably will need a few tries to get this
right but you try to get the ride height correct at the onset of the
hydraulic fluid noise. Now carefully tighten the lever without moving it
relative to the stabilizer bar.

Now check the ride height once more without the weight in the trunk, it
should not have changed

Note: Theory and real world are two different entities and there is no
sure method to remove the air. I removed the air 5 times on the same day
and re-adjusted the ride height , then I would find the car the next
morning sunk uneven again. the abnormal drive characteristics
disappeared at the same time the pentosin level stabilized.

Note: The car stood lower in the right, but the left side would also
sink over night, as measured with a ruler. When the car started the rear
would pump back up, but the pentosin level would be permanently a little
lower unrelated to the control valve and the new bombs.

Mainly the right side maintained a lot of air in the shock absorber. I
have a special test corner and the car would go soft in the rear,
something that never happened with the olf shock absorber. But luckily
now the right shock is okay.

[Tiger]

600 lbs is easy to do... bags of concretes, sands, etc.

[Elekta]

Lets see some pics of that bad boy...

[attack eagle]

shogun has an overly complex procedure there for what is really easy in your case.
if you didn't open the system (you didn't) but you did change the swaybar, you can just loosen the u bolt and rotate that.

there is no reason for you to tamper with adjusting the lever itself, just rotate the bracket on the swaybar. A jack under the diff will let you unload the suspension and release the pressure, then get a few friends to sit in the back of the car to see if you have the start point right, a few liftup & weigh down cycles and you should be able to set it about where you want it.

Unlike a stock setup, you can throw the book ride heights out the window, you only want it to engage as it should when weighed down. Now whether you want that to be at 600 lbs, or 500 lbs because you are lower, is up to you.

[Elekta]

get rid of the panzer pic and lets see the touring