Like I said in your other post I run Amsoil 0w30 in my 540 M-Sport. Run Amsoil Euro Formula in a friends '95 525, another friends '93 M5, and another friends '95 Miata.
I prefer how the 0w30 behaves, but it's a lot more expensive than the Euro Formula.
Things to do when switching over to synth from dino? Drain the oil when the engine is still rather warm. Pull the oil filter out and wait until the majority of the oil has drained from the block. Once it starts dripping instead of being a steady stream then pour a bit (maybe 1/4-1/2 of a quart) of the new type of oil in the oil filter canister to flush out what's left of the old oil. Once that's mostly drained out of the block, pour the rest of the quart into the oil fill to flush more of the old oil out of the block.
Let is sit and drain real well. If you can let it sit overnight then all the better. But I usually try to let it drain for at least an hour. Then put the drain plug & filter back in and refill.
If you want you can double the amount of new oil poured through the block (1/2-1 quart through the filter canister, and 1-1 1/2 quarts through the block). Usually found that pouring 2 full quarts through the engine gets most all of the old oil out of the block and pouring additional quarts through it don't accomplish much.
Seeing how Amsoil and Royal Purple aren't cheap, you might not want to bother with more than 1 quart poured through the block.
And I wouldn't worry much about new leaks being caused by switching over to synth. That was mostly a problem with vehicles built before the early-mid 80's. Had to do with what the older gaskets and seals were made with. A car as new as an E34 V8 won't have a problem changing to synth from dino oil.
Cosmos Black/Black 1995 540iA M-Sport
BMW Individual Exclusive Edition, 1 of 65 total, 9/25/95 Build