GO FISHING, use SLABSAUCE Fishing Attractant
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29

Thread: Synthetic Conversion

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Enumclaw, WA
    Posts
    103

    Default Synthetic Conversion

    Hello,
    Im sure this gets posted alot, but I always like to hear new information. I have been doing research and decided to switch to synthetic, Which reading it just seems silly not to run it. I have had this car for only one oil change so I am not sure if it has run synthetic before but currently it is running some sort of 15w oil from jiffy lube. Should I expect any of those leaking problems that are claimed to happen when switching to synthetic on a high mileage car. Anything I extra thing that needs to be done during an oil change when switching? And last but not least(I have asked this questions a few times), which brand do people recommend?
    Dan Lafley
    95 530i
    with 155,000 miles

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

    Default

    the leaking thing is from the past, a non issue today. Brands??? I used to like Mobil-1 until they took Castrol to court about not actually being synthetic and lost... now M-1 isn't synthetic. I would like to hear what is currently used cause my last bit of old M-1 is about to be used on the final oil change.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
    Posts
    3,868

    Default

    i just swapped at 150,000 ks....no ill effects...
    Gone but not forgotten

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    857

    Default

    I switched at 395 000 kms. Loose much less coolant now.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Montreal
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    royal purple and amsoil are still synthetic.

    i use castrol syntec, works well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    192

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Golgade View Post
    And last but not least(I have asked this questions a few times), which brand do people recommend?
    I have been running REDLINE OIL for about 10 years, very happy so far. Here is some information from Dave Granquist Dave@RedLineOil.com on what oil to use in the transmission......

    Thank you for contacting Red Line Oil.

    Do you know what label is on the transmission? From '83 to '92 BMW attached labels to their transmissions to indicate the fluid called for.
    The label should be affixed to the passenger side bell housing.
    BMW's with Green Label - MT-90
    Red Label - D4ATF
    No Label - MTL

    Green or Red label Units with D4ATF or MT-90 use 17mm external hex drain and fill plugs.

    No Label Units with MTL use 17mm internal hex drain and fill plugs.

    In the differential I would recommend the 75W90.

    Regards, Dave
    Red Line Oil
    M20 525/7 Bore: 84.50mm Stroke 81mm CR 8.5:1, blue printed/dyno & custom chip. Boost @ 6.5psi ~246hp @ 5300rpm / torque @ 269ftlbs. @ 4250rpm

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Muskegon, MI
    Posts
    226

    Default

    Valvoline synthetic 20w50. No leaks. 201,500 miles.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,036

    Default

    Like I said in your other post I run Amsoil 0w30 in my 540 M-Sport. Run Amsoil Euro Formula in a friends '95 525, another friends '93 M5, and another friends '95 Miata.

    I prefer how the 0w30 behaves, but it's a lot more expensive than the Euro Formula.

    Things to do when switching over to synth from dino? Drain the oil when the engine is still rather warm. Pull the oil filter out and wait until the majority of the oil has drained from the block. Once it starts dripping instead of being a steady stream then pour a bit (maybe 1/4-1/2 of a quart) of the new type of oil in the oil filter canister to flush out what's left of the old oil. Once that's mostly drained out of the block, pour the rest of the quart into the oil fill to flush more of the old oil out of the block.

    Let is sit and drain real well. If you can let it sit overnight then all the better. But I usually try to let it drain for at least an hour. Then put the drain plug & filter back in and refill.

    If you want you can double the amount of new oil poured through the block (1/2-1 quart through the filter canister, and 1-1 1/2 quarts through the block). Usually found that pouring 2 full quarts through the engine gets most all of the old oil out of the block and pouring additional quarts through it don't accomplish much.

    Seeing how Amsoil and Royal Purple aren't cheap, you might not want to bother with more than 1 quart poured through the block.

    And I wouldn't worry much about new leaks being caused by switching over to synth. That was mostly a problem with vehicles built before the early-mid 80's. Had to do with what the older gaskets and seals were made with. A car as new as an E34 V8 won't have a problem changing to synth from dino oil.
    Cosmos Black/Black 1995 540iA M-Sport
    BMW Individual Exclusive Edition, 1 of 65 total, 9/25/95 Build

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    618

    Default

    Sorry to resurrect this thread but I am about to go through this same thing, i haven't got a clue what has been used in the car so far but I am doing the service myself this time (lost faith in my local mechanics) so I am going for synthetic.

    AMSOIL and the like seem to be the premium choices but thats a stretch right now and I thought I would try a cheaper alternative first to see how it goes, i can always change it again in a few months but i just don't want it to cause more wear than normal, i doubt it will but I have no experience with engine oils.

    Car is a 96 540i v8 with 145k on the clock, mainly city driving but not all and temperatures around here range from -5 (worst case) to 35 (ahem...hopeful) degrees Celsius.

    I thought I should be using 15w50 but it seems 0w40 or even 0w30 is the way to go. I've got these two in mind (its very hard to source a good choice of oil retailers so its fleabay i'm afraid):

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=370145617605

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=370146617867

    Which grade should I be using given my circumstances and which would you chose out of the above? Or are there any others I should consider?
    UK 1997 e34 540iA Touring, 1989 535i Sport - now sold, 1998 Mercedes CLK 200 Coupe


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    143

    Default

    M1 "Turbo Diesel Truck" 5w40 is still 100% synthetic and is a near-perfect oil with a fantastic additive pack. It's also the same price as the regular M1. I've been running it ever since I stuffed the S52 in between the fenderwells and doing so year-round. This oil has been tested numerous times by Blackstone via used oil analysis and it's been shown to be good well-past 10k change-intervals.

    Don't worry about any special-hoops in regards to making the switch. Just do it. Your engine will thank you.

    Car Info is HERE

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Proper conversion from Dinosaur to Synthetic Oil
    By ThoreauHD in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-15-2006, 11:46 PM
  2. Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-12-2005, 06:07 PM
  3. do you use synthetic oil?
    By ve39 in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 09-08-2005, 10:17 PM
  4. Regular or synthetic oil?
    By ilya in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 04-25-2005, 08:41 PM
  5. Synthetic oil is wrong for the e-34???
    By Russell in forum 5 Series BMW
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 11-25-2004, 01:53 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •