Can any of you Steering guru's confirm this one???

[e34.535i.sport]

I've recently replaced upper/lower control arms, shocks and mounts... Tie rods and sway links done not too long back.

After the revamp of the front end it drove really nice for a while then I started getting a little knocking noise on the pasenger side when going over little bumps... Naturally I suspect the sway link - check it out and the boot is ripped to shreds. I jumped the gun and changed it today but the noise is still there!

Now, other symptoms after careful consideration include 'loose' steering and a knock when hitting the brakes sharply at low speeds...

The knocking noise always happens when I go over a 'lip' of pavement on the way into my drive. The funny thing is it only makes the noise when the wheel is turned to the left???!! When it happens you can feel it through the wheel too... If I turn the wheel right or have it straight forward and go over the lip then no noise or feeling.

My prognosis is the IDLER arm (the one that bolts to the centre tie rod and the chassis - I've done some research!!!!), does this sound right to anyone? Has anybody experienced this part fail before and had similar symptoms?

Just looking for a more concrete diagnosis before jumping the gun again and getting another unnecessary part! I have tried to move it by hand and it feels tight - but I know from experience this can be misleading... Any input much appreciated...

[genphreak]

1. Check for loose bolts in good light. If unsure maybe remove and inspect the threads so you know they are tightening ok.

2. thrust arm bushing broken- if you did it, did you have the car on level ground when tightening the thrust arm bushing bolts? The stock bsuhes only have so much 'give', so if they are tightened with the suspension at the wrong height they rip internally and cause erratic noises and/or behaviour... if someone else did the work, you can be sure unless they can convince you (properly) that they did the right thing.

If you are sure the right thing was done, next thing to check is the front spring not seated on th side you get the noise (depending on the noise- we can't tell you about that but the spring shifting on its seat is obviously more a twang, not so much a knock)

If you are still stumped after this, remove the sway bar to see if the links are the cause.

[e34.535i.sport]

1. Check for loose bolts in good light. If unsure maybe remove and inspect the threads so you know they are tightening ok.

2. thrust arm bushing broken- if you did it, did you have the car on level ground when tightening the thrust arm bushing bolts? The stock bsuhes only have so much 'give', so if they are tightened with the suspension at the wrong height they rip internally and cause erratic noises and/or behaviour... if someone else did the work, you can be sure unless they can convince you (properly) that they did the right thing.

If you are sure the right thing was done, next thing to check is the front spring not seated on th side you get the noise (depending on the noise- we can't tell you about that but the spring shifting on its seat is obviously more a twang, not so much a knock)

If you are still stumped after this, remove the sway bar to see if the links are the cause.

Hey thanks - I've checked all nuts and bolts with the torque wrench and all good.

I actually jacked up under the wheel hub to simulate the weight of the vehicle before tightening the pivot bolts up but I'll get it on ramps today and try to retorque under normal load. I have the 750i bushes at the moment so don't want to ruin them too quickly!

I checked on the seating of the coil too and no problems there, I had that last time I took the shocks off and learnt a lesson!

The sway link shouldn't be the problem as I replaced the noisy side yesterday... No change

I might take the idler arm off while I'm under there today... Didn't really want to go to the trouble of taking it off, putting back on to get the part and then changing it!!

[632 Regal]

clunks like that are usually loose/worn balljoints. Very hard to check for but the telltale is a clunk while jabbing the brake at very slow speeds.

New parts... if not Lemforder good as junk IMO, I could tear a 750 bushing up as soon as it was installed, the M5 bushing is one tough mother. If the bushing is already torn can cause a clunk.

Usually an idler arm or steering parts dont make the clunk thing. Sure the arms are installed on the correct side? They will install on the wrong side...LOL I wont mention names.

[e34.535i.sport]

clunks like that are usually loose/worn balljoints. Very hard to check for but the telltale is a clunk while jabbing the brake at very slow speeds.

New parts... if not Lemforder good as junk IMO, I could tear a 750 bushing up as soon as it was installed, the M5 bushing is one tough mother. If the bushing is already torn can cause a clunk.

Usually an idler arm or steering parts dont make the clunk thing. Sure the arms are installed on the correct side? They will install on the wrong side...LOL I wont mention names.

LOL - defo installed correctly! The big L & R gave it away! (I assume that the LEFT and RIGHT mean as you are sitting in the drivers seat????!!!!)

Just had it on ramps - got the GF to sit in the passenger seat and undone/retorqued pivot bolts just incase. Then done the same on the drivers side. Also while I was under there I had access to the idler arm so I took it off and inspected... It looked ok as far as I could tell. The parts I got weren't Lemf' unfortunately but the other side has been perfect since and they seem like they're good quality. Balljoints are all good and bushings seem as new.

Checked the seating of the spring on that side too - all ok, and tightened up the top mounting nuts for the suspension. I had previously checked the torque on all balljoint nuts too.

EVERYTHING seems tight down there which is really bugging me. Also, its only when the wheel is turned to the left. OR Jabbing the brake at low speeds... This is the key I think, but I just can't think what it could be after checking the rest.

Luckily though while I was down there I noticed a small leak from the sump plug as it has loosened... Tightened it up and all good.

Bloody car keeps me on my toes... (normally walking because its broken! LOL! )

[NovceGuru]

clunks like that are usually loose/worn balljoints. Very hard to check for but the telltale is a clunk while jabbing the brake at very slow speeds.

New parts... if not Lemforder good as junk IMO, I could tear a 750 bushing up as soon as it was installed, the M5 bushing is one tough mother. If the bushing is already torn can cause a clunk.

Usually an idler arm or steering parts dont make the clunk thing. Sure the arms are installed on the correct side? They will install on the wrong side...LOL I wont mention names.

Shut up

[genphreak]

Best also check the shock absorber's top nut. These tighten until the shock shaft spins, you might need some vice grips on the very top part of the shaft(i usually put a little bit of rubber in their teeth to stop them damaging the shaft)... I've seen this cause noise with suspension travel.

[Ferret]

When you figure this out, let me know! I've been chasing a nearside clunk since I got the car

[e34.535i.sport]

Been down there again today with the torque wrench... All nut's and bolts seem to be well torqued. The only ones I didn't check were the control arm balljoint nuts. I've checked them before but I'll prob check them again tomorrow. I also checked the top nut on the shock was tight... seemed sound.

Spring was seated well still, even with the wheel turned to the left.

I might take the strut assembly off again to check that the collar nut for the shock is tight enough. I cant see it being that though because that wouldn't make a noise when I Jab the brake but I'll try anything at the moment.

THe passenger side seems like a weak link with my car, when anything oges wrong its always on that side! The drivers side seems strong and planted, the passenger side feels loose and soft.

I feel like taking a baseball bat to the thing sometimes!!!!

[632 Regal]

strut collar is possible, use a pipe wrench to tighten it up while jacked up. the only when turned left comment is interesting though. It may be possible the strut mount is worn but the only when turned left... strange