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Thread: LOWER control arm labor time??

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    2,699

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    lower control arms can be done with just ramps and a floor jack and hand tools. (i did it). you remove the 3 bolts from the bottom end of the strut. then you undo the tie rod connecting to it and i think the lower swaybar link ball joint.

    once the plate connecting the control arms is taken off - you undo the bolt on the lower control arm and hammer it out placing it on some bricks or sockets (Bill R method).

    I would say 2 hours per side, working at home, or 1.5 hours at a shop.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Gateshead,UK
    Posts
    926

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    I agree. working at home you should be able to do each side in two hours. Before I did mine I took the step of ordering a complete set of bolts for the inner lower arm bush and the 3 lower strut carrier bolts so I could be content that everything would torque up OK on re-assembly, and would be easy to remove in future. They only cost a few pounds for the lot.

    HTH,

    Shaun M

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Liverpool UK
    Posts
    1,536

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    I reckon if the garage had the inclination they could do it in an hour. Didn't take me long and I done it on the drive with a jack and a jackstand. It's a peice of piss with the right tools.

    I wouldn't even attempt the job without one of these -
    http://www.toolbay.biz/i/prods/0282.jpg

    The procedure is outlined here in detail, but it's very simple once you get down there. I just jacked up one side, undone the three bolts that hold the small plate to the hub area and dropped it down (needed a tap with a hammer). This exposes the nut for the Lower control arm... Undo the nut (you may need a breaker bar) but leave it on to help with the next part - get the tool shown above and use it to 'unlock' the balljoint. It will pop out so don't be worried when it does! There's also a pivot bolt on the other end... One side you can hold with a spanner and the other side can be undone with a ratchet or small breaker bar.

    Slap the new one in and torque the bolts correctly. The pivot bolt needs to be torqued under load. You will more than likely need your tracking done after this too.

    Don't pay a garage to do something you can do yourself thats my motto... I can't afford to that with a car this age!
    1995 XJR: 4.0L S/charged straight 6 Auto

    What... It's not broken??? I can still fix it

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