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Thread: Car won't start: tried a jumper on the relay, next!?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Montreal, Canada
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    Default Car won't start: tried a jumper on the relay, next!?

    • First of all I changed the fuel pump, because I had a spare one from my old tank. Made no difference.
    • Second, I changed fuse 23, and still no go.
    • Now, I just put a jumper between 30 and 87 on the relay, and it made the pump work even without the key in the ignition, and there was a hissing noise coming from around the fuel rail... but the car will still crank without firing.

    any pointers would be greaaaatly appreciated! all of the above are stuff I learned about by searching the forums... but im out of resources now!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monastie
    • First of all I changed the fuel pump, because I had a spare one from my old tank. Made no difference.
    • Second, I changed fuse 23, and still no go.
    • Now, I just put a jumper between 30 and 87 on the relay, and it made the pump work even without the key in the ignition, and there was a hissing noise coming from around the fuel rail... but the car will still crank without firing.

    any pointers would be greaaaatly appreciated! all of the above are stuff I learned about by searching the forums... but im out of resources now!
    Get a 12V bulb and connect to two pieces of wire. Put one end to ground and the other to 'slot' 30 or 87. If the bulb lights up, put it in the other slot and temporarily replace the relay with the wire in place. The bulb should light up when you crank. If not the relay isnt working. If thats OK, whip out a plug. If it looks wet with fuel you are not getting a spark. Check by connecting up the plug and holding the outer againt a good ground while you crank. You should get a healthy spark across the plug gap. Use rubber gloves or insulated pliars so you dont get a shock.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
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    2,538

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    Quote Originally Posted by Monastie
    • Now, I just put a jumper between 30 and 87 on the relay, and it made the pump work even without the key in the ignition, and there was a hissing noise coming from around the fuel rail... but the car will still crank without firing.
    Did you try starting it with the fuel pump relay jumper in place? If so, and it wouldn't start, then no need to try Whiskeys 12v bulb trick. Just pass go and collect $200. Or, just move on and check for spark.

    Dave

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Any spark? If not, then crank position sensor.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Oldham, England
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    Did you try starting it with the fuel pump relay jumper in place? If so, and it wouldn't start, then no need to try Whiskeys 12v bulb trick. Just pass go and collect $200. Or, just move on and check for spark.

    Dave
    Dave is right. What I was trying to get you to do was prove that the relay and the circuit which energizes it were working so you wouldnt have to go back to it afterwards

  6. #6
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    Feb 2004
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    Crank position sensor.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
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    both pumps I have seem to be working.

    finally cheked for spark today, and there was none. pulled the first spark plug and pluged it back in the wire, made it touch the valve cover, and no spark at ignition.
    (btw, the bently dosent say you have to remove the airbox to reach the plugs.... but you kinda do! I had a hard time finding the plugs at first... ya im a noob)

    next? new plugs? then move to dme? or can I chek voltage from dme with a regular voltmeter (or is it too much voltage).

  8. #8
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    Jul 2006
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    Montreal, Canada
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    isn't the obc supposed to give me a message for this?
    because it's not...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    370

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    Quote Originally Posted by Monastie
    next? new plugs? then move to dme? or can I chek voltage from dme with a regular voltmeter (or is it too much voltage).
    how do your plugs look? spark plugs are likely not the problem if it suddenly stopped running, more likely distributor cap/rotor is fried in my limited experience, but it doesn't hurt to change the plugs at $25. the wear on them can be a good clue to your problem- check for deposits/corrosion.

    i found the distributor cap was awkward to remove on the m20 as it is jammed right up against the fan housing, but on most vehicles it's an easy check. check for cracks in the plastic cap and burns on the components.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    pics of an old fried distributor and rotor - hard to believe any electrons made it through all that crud, the car was running (well) still tho.

    tiger is probably spot on tho
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