540i won't crank... no fuelpump feed from DME

[Ferret]

If noone else beats me to it, I'll scan the appropriate manual page this evening for you about how to re-synch!

[Ferret]

Yea... what is a knee bolster.... the cover under the dash above the knee? I didn't see no EWS module in there...

Basically gut the underside of the dash board and the bottom half of the steering column and follow the cables back, it'll be under there somewhere. I think the knee bolster is either the bottom of the steering column or the dash immediately adjacent to it.

[genphreak]

First of all... check your starter to see if it works. All you need is a remote starter button... and go to your diagnostic module in engine bay... I don't remember what pins... just two... and trigger it to see if your starter crank. You could use just a piece of wire too. Winfred mentioned this on other post.

Otherwise do it the hard way, at the starter... one big cable is the battery positive. Connect one wire to here... and then there is two little terminal, find out which one is positive and hook up the other wire to there.. Then trigger it.

It is possible the starter relay is bad... which I believe is under your back seat... or your fusible link is burned out.

Thanks Tiger- I did try the diagnostic plug first, but the later cars don't have pins 11 or 14, they have about half as many located within the plug- and none are a remote start that sux- it is really uselful when adjusting valves (not necessary on an M60 tho)

Also, the starter was working fine. Since I can't get power to the fuel pump it is normal that the starter won't fire as (I think all) Motronic ECUs require fuel to allow cranking and/or firing of the plugs. Hopefully I can get around hot-wiring it and make the EWS work at the same time, but I'll let you know. I may just have to do that tho :{ Nick

[genphreak]

Basically gut the underside of the dash board and the bottom half of the steering column and follow the cables back, it'll be under there somewhere. I think the knee bolster is either the bottom of the steering column or the dash immediately adjacent to it.

First thing in the am I'll be into it, and I'll post what I find out.... about 8 hours form now. Cheers Ferret!

[pgrindstaff]

I have heard somewhere that if you lock one of the later E34s with the remote and then open with the key, it'll not start.

This statement is very true. Just a couple of weeks ago I locked my car with the remote, came back half an hour later and it would not unlock with the remote. Knowing that the alarm would sound I went ahead and unlocked with the key as I had done this one time before and was able to deactivate the alarm. I was not so fortunate this time around though. Apparently my fob went bad and disassociated with EWS and immobilized my car. A tow and new key later, everything works fine again.

In my frantic search for a temporary solution (ie. get the car running, forget the alarm), I was told by someone at one of the dealerships I called that at one point there was an option to code the car to lock/unlock with either the remote OR the key, not one or the other. I have not looked through DIS yet but as soon as I get a chance I will be trying to find this option just in case.

Shogun has a link on his site for the DWA or EWS manual in PDF. This may help you.

Good luck,
Patrick

[Tiger]

Main relay or fusible link at the battery positive cable is burnt out.

[genphreak]

Have been going through things without any luck. Bah! EWS and now DWA.... (I just found the damned thing under the rear seat... hidden behind the RM/GM box). But it doesn't seem to be a part of the problem.

I've given up trying to make- figured I should try to solve the no power windows/dome light/central locking/low speed wipers problem first. Tried everything, with plenty of voltage in the system- and plain no go!

I've swapped all the fuses... checked power on each relay. However I seem to be missing the power protection relay (just got the car without these things working).

Does anyone else have a blank relay location beside their General Module?

[yaofeng]

Main relay or fusible link at the battery positive cable is burnt out.

This is a good point. You should definitely check it first to eliminate it as the source if nothing else.

[genphreak]

This is a good point. You should definitely check it first to eliminate it as the source if nothing else.

Thanks guys... good suggestions. Fusible link was dodgey, so I replaced that instead of just cleaning the ends- but it can't be the problem. I have added a relay where it was missing one (the Power Protection Relay) and that has made no difference at all - but it does click when you put it in so it wants to do something... It is really weird. Main relay is passing current to the Fuel pump relay and ECU etc... and get this, if I jump the starter motor solenoid with a screwdriver the engine starts and the car drives fine.

OBC shows PPPP ever since I shorted the battery terminals a la Shogun's reset.

Still the circuit that runs the Central Locking, power windows and dome light, etc. is dead. Map lights work... Cruise control, everything needed to drive works.

And of course the keyfobs (remote locking) are dead.

This morning, I connected it to a handheld ECU scanner at a friends place, the ECU and the EWSII **are synchronised** and there are no problems reported with the ECU or EWSII...

My solution, if I can't find soemthing miraculously today or tomorrow, is to goto the dealer...

<Crying>

[Ferret]

Thanks guys... good suggestions. Fusible link was dodgey, so I replaced that instead of just cleaning the ends- but it can't be the problem. I have added a relay where it was missing one (the Power Protection Relay) and that has made no difference at all - but it does click when you put it in so it wants to do something... It is really weird. Main relay is passing current to the Fuel pump relay and ECU etc... and get this, if I jump the starter motor solenoid with a screwdriver the engine starts and the car drives fine.

OBC shows PPPP ever since I shorted the battery terminals a la Shogun's reset.

Still the circuit that runs the Central Locking, power windows and dome light, etc. is dead. Map lights work... Cruise control, everything needed to drive works.

And of course the keyfobs (remote locking) are dead.

This morning, I connected it to a handheld ECU scanner at a friends place, the ECU and the EWSII **are synchronised** and there are no problems reported with the ECU or EWSII...

My solution, if I can't find soemthing miraculously today or tomorrow, is to goto the dealer...

<Crying>

This might sound really silly, but have you checked the output terminals on the back of the ignition barrel? The E39s have a horrific problem with random crap dropping out on the car and it's all to do with the blasted ignition switch.

There's 2/3 voltage feeds out the back for the 'RUN' position iirc, and one or two drop out.

Start probing the terminals to see if you've actually got voltage coming out of the 'start' line when you turn the key.

Edit: is power going to the correct fuses? Even if it is, dont assume that the current's getting through them - barney had some electrical gremlins a while back and cleaning up the fuse contacts sorted it all out.