Trunk Locked

[EngPhys09]

So I tried bimmer forums but didn't get a good response.

I am locked out of my trunk, I can turn the lock cylinder but it will not actuate the lock clip.


So I believe that in the image part 6 or 7 is not connected to the cylinder. Is there anyway I can get into my trunk.
Since the power is run to the lock cylinder unlocking or locking any of the other doors does nothing.
As far as I know there is no trunk release switch anywhere in the car.
Is there anyway to power box 11 externally? (Not from in the trunk)
My ski pass is not cut yet and even if it was I don't believe I would be able to fit through it.

HELP!!

[Ross]

If the trunk is locked and won't respond to the signal from unlocking the doors chances are a break in the infamous trunk harness.
But you could try getting to one of the door actuators, the blue and white wires are common with the trunk actuator. I'm not certain which polarity would be unlock so you'll need to experiment.
I would unplug the GM, RM and LKM before applying voltage to these wires.
Other wise hire a ten year old with mechanical skills to climb through the ski hole.
Good luck!

[EngPhys09]

If the trunk is locked and won't respond to the signal from unlocking the doors chances are a break in the infamous trunk harness.
But you could try getting to one of the door actuators, the blue and white wires are common with the trunk actuator. I'm not certain which polarity would be unlock so you'll need to experiment.
I would unplug the GM, RM and LKM before applying voltage to these wires.
Other wise hire a ten year old with mechanical skills to climb through the ski hole.
Good luck!

Where are these common wires located in each door panel?
And doesn't the signal go to the lock cylinder which then actuates the door lock via wire 6 and 7?

If I was able to climb through the ski pass through would I still be able to pull the trunk liner around the door away? Doesn't it overlap the edge of the door?

Also what is GM, RM and LKM?

[Ross]

I'm a little confused about if the trunk is locked or if it just won't unlatch due to a rod falling off or something.
Another thought is to gain access to the area around the drivers side trunk hinge where the harness always fails and jiggle it while someone else attempts to operate the locks. If you pull the back seat out, the package shelf and the left speaker you could get an arm in.
The GM is the general module, the RM is the relay module, both live in the electronics box under the rear seat on the driver's side. Remove it's cover and you'll see them side by side. In the nomenclature on them you will notice RM and GM somewhere. They just lift out. Probably no need to undo the LKM, light control module.
BETTER YET-- With the modules removed the circuits I suggested accessing through a door are readily available in that e-box. The blue wire terminates at the RM pin #1, the white at pin #13.

[525i winter driver]

I'm a little confused about if the trunk is locked or if it just won't unlatch due to a rod falling off or something.
Another thought is to gain access to the area around the drivers side trunk hinge where the harness always fails and jiggle it while someone else attempts to operate the locks. If you pull the back seat out, the package shelf and the left speaker you could get an arm in.
The GM is the general module, the RM is the relay module, both live in the electronics box under the rear seat on the driver's side. Remove it's cover and you'll see them side by side. In the nomenclature on them you will notice RM and GM somewhere. They just lift out. Probably no need to undo the LKM, light control module.
BETTER YET-- With the modules removed the circuits I suggested accessing through a door are readily available in that e-box. The blue wire terminates at the RM pin #1, the white at pin #13.

shouldn't the trunk lock operate manually tho? kind of like the manual door-unlock?

i just switched mine and i recall thinking so... mine was sticking all the time but it never got to the point that i couldn't unlock it. there were a few times tho that it took a couple of minutes to wiggle the key enough to move it. but yours moves... maybe the cylinder is busted inside? but then the lock actuator should still work? i'd bet your problem is in part #4 somewhere... i'm sure you've given that a few thumps already tho.

i know if you leave the lock it in the locked position (with the key opening horizontal iirc) then unlocking the doors isn't supposed to unlock the trunk lock.

i think if it was the rod you mention, you would still hear the actuator (10) trying to move (6) which moves the latch (3)... the rods are held on really tight with plastic clips (that could break i guess, but s/o would have to screw with it first i think - like i did)

the old one was lying around and so is my camera so i snapped a photo on the very outside chance it would help... it's kind of hard to see those oem diagrams. you can see the cylinder is probably getting pretty rusty - but it was actually on the side (the little opening you can see on the right side) that it was catching and sticking. there is a plastic piece missing from the ring on the top left... these plastic bits attach to rods 6 and 7 in the linked diagram (again iirc).

[Qsilver7]

Its not clear if you are turning your key to the "electronically" opened position or the manual unlock position (for when there's a power failure).

Did you turn the key in the trunk lock cylinder counter clockwise (to the left) past the detent? This is how you unlock the driver's door and the trunk when there is no electrical power.

[finalanarchy]

yea, if the lock does not unlock manually then the actuator would not likely unlock it.
Also you are right about not being able to remove the lining from inside the boot, if I were you, i would cut a t/cross shape in the lining directly behind the the lock then you could later remove the lining and tape/sew/glue it back together.

[Paul in NZ]

the key operates the trunk lock directly.Even if the battery is flat you can always get in the boot,you dont need the electrical part.Sometimes the boot lid can get "stuck" to the seal,so try pushing the button in and giving it a good yank upwards

[EngPhys09]

I still think the problem is the rod not being attached to the lock mechanism itself.
I'm not near my car right now so Sunday or Monday I'll look at it again. I think I'm going to cut my pass through and as finalanarchy said cut a small opening around the mechanism. If the problem is what I think it is I should be able to pull the rod and it will open the trunk.
I've tried everything with pulling on it and pushing it, I hear the cylinder actuate but it doesn't switch the lock, so from what I can determine from a process of elimination is that the likley cause is the attachment between the cylinder and the latch.

Thanks for all the information guys, I'll check it all on Sunday and report back.
Cheers

[EngPhys09]

Well I fixed it! I had to cut my ski pass and stick one arm in with a bunch of extensions i was able to remove the latch on the base of the trunk. The trunk then opened and I had to place those to wires in, they weren't connected tightly.

Thanks Guys