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Thread: M50 cranks but won't fire

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    134

    Default Car running again...

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave M
    Don't worry about the fusible link. Here is a fused 'jumper wire' with a switch. the fuse just sits in a $1 plastic bit you can get at an auto parts or electronis store. You don't necessarily need the switch, but it is handy for other things.



    Dave
    I went out to my car and jumped it with my truck again. This time I checked for 12 volts at the battery under the back seat and it was there. Apparently the inverter and voltage regulator were not adversely affecting the voltage across the battery. Just to be sure, I disconnected both the regulator and inverter and checked again. Again, 12 volts. However, there was still only 3 volts at the relay 30 post. I checked post 30 of all three relays and got only 3 volts. I noticed a black plastic terminal in line with the relays. It has two red wires that connect at this black plastic terminal block. I tightened the nuts that hold each red wire to the terminal block. I had to turn one nut about ten revolutions. That resolved my problem. After all of this, it appears that a loose wire connection was causing the problem.

    My engine was replaced not too long ago. The mechanic must have forgotten to tighten those wires.

    Thanks for checking the wiring diagram to let me know that there is almost a direct connection between the battery and the relays. Knowing that really narrowed down my search and enabled me to find this issue and resolve it.
    92 525i w/ Eibach lowering, Bilsteins, KMAC, Dinan chip, low temp coolant switch, K&N replacement air filter, UUC short shifter, RD strut brace, blacked out, 17" Borbets

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
    Posts
    2,538

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bissellh
    I went out to my car and jumped it with my truck again. This time I checked for 12 volts at the battery under the back seat and it was there. Apparently the inverter and voltage regulator were not adversely affecting the voltage across the battery. Just to be sure, I disconnected both the regulator and inverter and checked again. Again, 12 volts. However, there was still only 3 volts at the relay 30 post. I checked post 30 of all three relays and got only 3 volts. I noticed a black plastic terminal in line with the relays. It has two red wires that connect at this black plastic terminal block. I tightened the nuts that hold each red wire to the terminal block. I had to turn one nut about ten revolutions. That resolved my problem. After all of this, it appears that a loose wire connection was causing the problem.

    My engine was replaced not too long ago. The mechanic must have forgotten to tighten those wires.

    Thanks for checking the wiring diagram to let me know that there is almost a direct connection between the battery and the relays. Knowing that really narrowed down my search and enabled me to find this issue and resolve it.
    Finally,

    Congratulations!!!!!!!

    Dave

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

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