Do you have access to a cordless or corded impact gun?? Thats the easiest solution. If not, try tapping on it with a hammer to get it started.
Dave
...this has been discussed a zillion times, and I have read every thread / resource / website I can find, and I'm still stuck on the install. Specifically - getting the ball joints out with a tie rod puller ended up working quite nicely. Getting the new ones in, not so much. The self-locking nut starts to grab pretty early and the ball joint just spins in place, no joy. I'm trying to get my head around these instructions:
"5. If the ball joint turns while tightening the nut, use vice grips or pliers to hold the bottom of the ball joint to the steering plate."
Huh?
Can someone please enlighten me, or recommend an alternative procedure? Everything else is done.
Oh, and these are Lemforders from BMA. Thanks in advance, all.
-Zak-
1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission
Do you have access to a cordless or corded impact gun?? Thats the easiest solution. If not, try tapping on it with a hammer to get it started.
Dave
10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
*RIP Oskar the DOG*
Fraid not.Originally Posted by Dave M
I didn't bang on it at all, didn't want to mess up the joint.
Maybe I can get a clamp in there. Thanks for chiming in so quickly.
1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission
I hear ya, but both parts (L & R) were identical... I'm going to get under there tomorrow morning and see if I can get a clamp on it. Thanks!Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
1995 525iM - 131k - Alternator play, broken s-belt
1995 525iA - 147k - Tensioner weirdness, broken s-belt
2001 Intgra GS-R - 130k - spun bearing
2002 Honda Odyssey - 80k - fragged transmission
man I go away for a while and you guys forget everything I taught you! lol... use a old a metric nut without the crimp or nylock to set it tight, then come back with the locking nut and torque it in.![]()
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I've had new Lemforders want to spin. New nylox lock nuts are sticky buggers and grab at the ball joint pretty tight. Agree, a clamp should work to get the taper started on the steering arm.Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
Dave
10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
*RIP Oskar the DOG*
Well, you got through the hard part (getting the ball joints out).
Anyway, I'd try to somehow clamp the two pieces together to get a bit of friction on them. Possibly use a large C clamp? Not really sure how I would suggest clamping them together. Maybe have a friend put some downward force on the thrust arm while you tighten the nut?
Like it was mentioned before, the best way would be with an impact gun.
93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC
Let some of the cars weight down on it, it won't turn.
"The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"