3 Grand Master
i you keep on top of maintenance they are reliable...if you compare like with like you may find that japanese cars dont last as well as a BMW...they will cost a lot less in the lon run,but how many nearly twenty year old lexus and Hondas do you see?
Gone but not forgotten
Big Time Poster
Originally Posted by BMW4LIFE
so yeah, you're right, most women who drive bmw's don't understand the value of a dollar. and toyota trucks are most definitely extremely reliable. i'm thinking of getting a 4runner after I sell my car. i've put $2000 into my car within 4 months. it's getting old fast. i will always be a bmw nut for the rest of my life, even if i'm not driving one. there is no other car that can perform, handle, and downright feel like a bmw.
Big, Big Time Poster
Ya there nice looking, watch out for the clutch. BMW used the same clutch for the 540i as they did on the 525i and the 530i. Small clutch + big engine = o no!
another thing is, have you driven one?
They have those stupid lock valves that "smooth out" your clutch engagement.... aka makes your shifts slower.
Plus this is the time when BMW started making cars different for the us! A US e39 has about 2 1/2 in of more insulation in the dash to compensate for people not wearing seat belts (look at where the passanger side dash meets the door). I would look into a euro dash unless you want you passengers making out with your dash board.
MOREOVER, the e39 is much more isolated in terms of chassis response to the driver. My dad always complains about this all the time when going from his car to mine.
Another downside (one that is REALLY dumb) is the DSC. This is great when it is wet, not great 90% of the time. When pulling out into traffic, lets say the situation calls for hard acceleration. What does dsc do? hits the rear breaks to stop wheel spin and slows engine revs! leaving you stuck there with you foot to the floor and nothing happening! (true story, has happened more then once)
Those can be easily fixed,
but You do not have rack and pinion steering in the 540i.
The thing will not rev like an inline 6.
BUT! it is a BMW... meaning...YOU CANNOT GO WRONG!
Conforti chip, K&N filter, Racing-dyn sways, EBC pad/rotor, SS brakelines, UUC DSSR, custom sound+alpine receiver, 17" PS2s, H&R/bilsports.
"Speed is the product of doing everything right"
Major Contributor
so i got a quote today from a mechanic that said he could change my
rear struts
thrust arms
and sub fram bushings
for $325
is that a good deal
i have no idea how to do those....i can pretty much do the rest!
hahha
oh another quick question
break pad brands.....which one?!
Rotors? Which brand? (balo, zimmerman, brembo, ATE, etc?)
thanks!
Big, Big Time Poster
If that is including all parts and all labor I would say it's good.
I run EBC red stuff break pads, used them at the track and had no fade (saying alot about a 3,600lb car) on the Summit Point Shenandoah circuit (highly technical course, LOTS of heavy breaking), a lot of people say hawk pads are good, but I don't know them from personal experiance.
I also run EBC semi-slotted and dimpled rotors. They are amazing! Only problem with getting slotted and/or drilled is you may get a slight shim at 10-15 mph when breaking. On some cars you cannot notice it on other it is horrible.I was going to put ate rotors on, but went w/ EBC.
One thing to consider is, if you get slotted or drilled their is a greater (yet still slim) change of the rotor cracking. Brembo is a safe bet and I have heard good things about zimmerman (but again no experience with them on my car).
Another thing to consider is the kind of break fluid you run. It can help your breaking as well.
If what you are looking for is improved pedal feel, stainless steel break lines are what you should go for! I just did mine and there sweet!
Conforti chip, K&N filter, Racing-dyn sways, EBC pad/rotor, SS brakelines, UUC DSSR, custom sound+alpine receiver, 17" PS2s, H&R/bilsports.
"Speed is the product of doing everything right"
Major Contributor
no the 325 is just the labor! =(
kind of expensive i know but the rear subframe bushings are est at 4 hrs labor!
as far as the rotors go...i have balos with some pbr pads...(friend recmd)
they were awesome in the beggining but it seems like they have lost their bit
i changed the brake fluid with ATE super blue racing fluid (which i first tried on my rc51) and they MADE A HUGEEEEEEEEE CHANGE!
i recmnd that everyone try that...im going to flush my brake fluid again after i fix the suspension to see if there is a change if not i will consider new brake pads and or rotors!
as far as ebc goes they are awesome but expensive
im not going to race my car but i rather have a better braking car than a faster car anyday of the week!!!
Major Contributor
I use Magnum Drilled Rotors....Bought the 4 for 140 with shipping INCLUDED!
And for Pads I use PBR Full Organic Pads 4 Corners for 125.
The pads almost never lose their bite, even from repeated high speed braking.
EDIT: That ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid. How many litres did you need? If I'm going to upgraded my brake lines, might as well flush the fluid.
Last edited by bad_manners_god; 03-07-2008 at 12:07 AM.
BMW E34 1992 525i Touring
RIP Touring...probably never going to drive you again...
Major Contributor
1 liter was more than enough....i used the rest left over in my friends bike and he was blown away as well!!!!
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3326
use google check out and get it for 3 bucks!!! =)
Major Contributor
I don't know where you see it for 3 bucks. Care to elaborate, plus shipping was 15 UPS ground to quebec. (27.40$ on that site)
About $23 on ebay.
BMW E34 1992 525i Touring
RIP Touring...probably never going to drive you again...
Major Contributor
if you use google check out for the first time they give you 10 bucks off
damn the shipping is expensive
uummmm....try amazon...if you but 25 bucks or more so three of them, shipping will be free....
you can always turn around and give the other two to your friends or relatives to try!
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