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Thread: Thrust Arm Replacement

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2

    Default Thrust Arm Replacement

    I need some help/advice. I'm replacing the thrust arms (aka upper control arms) on my '95 540i. I have new arms with bushings pressed in, new washers and self-locking 22mm nuts for the bushing end.

    Problem: How in the #$%* do you get a wrench on that nut on the bushing end? It's really tight between the frame and the sway bar link bracket. This wasn't covered in the manual. Has anyone done this? The bolt end seems fairly accessible, but I'm assuming I'll have to hold the nut end with something to torque it down. Especially unclear is how I'll do this with the wheels on and car lowered.

    Car is up on jack stands now, any help would be appreciated.
    Last edited by Chazmati; 01-27-2008 at 04:52 PM. Reason: corrected title

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
    Posts
    6,922

    Default

    the box end of most wrenches fit in there i find, if not you can unbolt the rear cross member partially and get the room you need, as for pretensioning the arm with the suspension unloaded i tighten the through bolt with the ball joint end sitting on the steering arm instead of down in it's hole, that's about the right position
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    4,243

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by winfred
    the box end of most wrenches fit in there i find, if not you can unbolt the rear cross member partially and get the room you need, as for pretensioning the arm with the suspension unloaded i tighten the through bolt with the ball joint end sitting on the steering arm instead of down in it's hole, that's about the right position
    Why didn't I ever think of that?
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Chicago, Il. U.S.A.
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    Default

    I think a lot of problems occur here because of the kind of wrenches some folks have.
    Good quality tools are expensive, large good quality tools are really expensive. The temptation to buy that set of big wrenches from India is great when comparing prices. The problem is those el cheapos get their "strength" from bulk rather than good alloy and accurate machining. These might work just fine on an oil rig but are often bulky enough to be worthless for automotive work.
    One more reason not to use crappy tools.
    "The gas pedal wouldn't go to the floor if it weren't meant to be there"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    63

    Default

    it is a job but its ok once you get going 22mm spanner on the tight part and then a breaker bar on the other and pull like mad once you get it going its ok and will come off with out to much fuss unless like me you have the bolt the wrong way then your have to drop a lot down just to get it out.
    to torque it up your need the ramps or try jacking the car up then sliding blocks under the wheels so its up in the air but still on the wheels its what i was going to do until a friend said he had ramps

    good luck
    1994 BMW E34 Touring Tds Auto (M51)
    Nice car wish it was start uphill

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Glasgow, UK
    Posts
    114

    Default

    The procedure I used, think I got it from either Bruno's site or Johan's, is to get a 22mm open end wrench, preferably an old one, and grind the sides down so that it slips in easier, otherwise the rounded part of it stops it going in properly.

    16 Feet of pure pleasure

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    63

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by doogie
    The procedure I used, think I got it from either Bruno's site or Johan's, is to get a 22mm open end wrench, preferably an old one, and grind the sides down so that it slips in easier, otherwise the rounded part of it stops it going in properly.

    humm i must have a messed up setup i just popped a ring spanner on there turned the other end and the spanner locks in
    1994 BMW E34 Touring Tds Auto (M51)
    Nice car wish it was start uphill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Glasgow, UK
    Posts
    114

    Default

    this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.

    16 Feet of pure pleasure

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks Doogie! The "unreachable nut" is exactly what I was talking about. Aborted mission for today, will grind down an open end wrench and try again. Or maybe like Calibra mentioned I can try to get a box end wrench in the right spot and turn the bolt until it lines up and locks in.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    baton rouge, loserana
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    Default

    yea e32s are tighter then e34s at the nut

    Quote Originally Posted by doogie
    this is what I was talking about; it's maybe only a problem on the E32, not the E34.
    all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it

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