E34 Troubles

[calibra]

Hi all
So far i have pinched other peoples posts to find out whats wrong with my car so i thought i would list of the problems and see what people can come up with then i can tick them off as they are fixed

1. She doesn't like to start when facing uphill
2. My rear hatch window doesn't open
3. The middle air vents only blow cold air
4. 4th injector has a small leak does anyone know if there is a washer or seal?
5. I have read this all over the forum but have no idea what it means DME? lol

some other little jobs iv done
Trust arms done. (damn hard work just getting the bolt out rest was easy)
Rear park brake done.

thanks for any help all

P.s problem 1 is almost fixed i think just got to test pump with 12volts, if it doesn't work then ill go get a new one, and i have now get a one way valve to put on the fuel line

[attack eagle]

#2 ; hatch harnesses (common) or switch in the gate.

#3 which center vents? console rear or dash? console rear does only fresh or air conditioned air

[calibra]

Cheers for reply

looking at the info for number 2 just cant find the relay for the hatch cant seem to find it in the rear wheel arch

number 3 its the dash vents sorry i should have been more clear on that

[bad_manners_god]

Cheers for reply

looking at the info for number 2 just cant find the relay for the hatch cant seem to find it in the rear wheel arch

number 3 its the dash vents sorry i should have been more clear on that

The relay is in a funny place.

Open your hatch, look to your right, you have the hide away panel that opens. Now the piece that covers your Strut Tower has to come out.

Drop the rear seats flat for more room to work, take out the seat belt mechanism cover, there's a couple screws there that hold the big piece in place. Another Screw from the inside of the hideaway panel. 2 Screws inside the metal piece for cargo holding (there's a small cut on the inside for a flat head to pop off the flap, the screws are behind here. Now, take off the hideaway floor and push the carpeting aside, 1 or 2 clips/screws holding it.
Then giggle the piece out.

The relays will be right in front you...but dont go through all that trouble before you look at the harness.

[attack eagle]

Probably not the relay FYI.

Probably a broken wire where the wires go from body to hatch.

power goes into the gate to the switch, returns out of the gate to the relay, and then from the relay returns to the gate again to the motor.
Convoluted as hell, especially when you figure the relay is on the right side and the wires are on the left side of the hatch.



The relay is under the carpeted panel on the right wall of the cargo area.

you need to remove the entire right side to access it. basically he same thing as accessing the strut top. instructions for that are on www.bmw34.net

There are two smaller relays at the end of the row of relays etc there. one is hatch glass and he other hatch.

[calibra]

Thanks for the help ill get on that one tomorrow morning



Does anyone know about the injectors?

[Ross]

Thanks for the help ill get on that one tomorrow morning



Does anyone know about the injectors?

There are two O-rings on each injector, one at the fuel rail and another at the head.
Remove the fuel rail and do them all, they are cheap.
Better yet send the injectors out for ultrasonic cleaning and "refurbishing" which will get you clean injectors, a fresh screen in each and new O-rings.

[calibra]

There are two O-rings on each injector, one at the fuel rail and another at the head.
Remove the fuel rail and do them all, they are cheap.
Better yet send the injectors out for ultrasonic cleaning and "refurbishing" which will get you clean injectors, a fresh screen in each and new O-rings.

mine doesnt have a rail its a old diesel just have the main pump with pipes leading off to the injectors

[Ross]

Ah yes. Please forgive my yankcentric reply.
I've never laid eyes on a BMW rattler so will remain in suspense for the correct solution.

[Adnan]

Hi,

When you say the injector has a leak, do you mean it is leaking fuel out the top such that you can see it? Or, is it leaking air causing rough running?

Injectors use two o-rings, one down near the pintle so that it prevents air leaking past into the intake manifold and a second one at the top, where it enters the fuel rail. I'm guessing that yours is the upper one that's leaking, causing fuel to seep past?

To fix this means pulling the fuel rail first. I'm only familiar with the M30 engine in this particular area so I can't tell you how to do it. Once the rail is out, the injector can be pulled and the o-ring replaced. This is a reasonably involved job depending on your skill level so make sure of your diagnosis before you commit to it. Also, if you do this, consider replacing all the injectors or have them professionally cleaned, depending on the mileage and running characteristics.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Adnan