Parts needed for Shifter refurb

[rob101]

Hello everyone. I am looking to fix up the shift linkage on my gf's 318is its pretty loose and as a result sometimes it will not go into 1st properly. I am intending to switch to redline MTF but I am first going to change the bushes to tighten the shifter linkage. at present I was going to change these parts (from pelican parts write up):
1- Shift coupler with internal bushing
2- Pin retaining clip (often destroyed or weakened when removed)
3- Ball cup sponge - typically completely disintegrated
4- Shifter arm bushing (attaches to chassis)
5- Shifter arm bushing (attaches to transmission)
6- Lower shift boot (often cracked)
7- Shifter arm pin (often damaged when removed)
8- Shift selector rod circlips
9- Yellow plastic washers/bushings for shift selector rod
10- Shift handle ball cup bushing (almost always heavily worn)

I was wondering which of these i can get away with not changing as its a little bit too expensive atm. I have a feeling that the shifter arm bushing on the chassis side and the rubber boot I could get away with not changing saving $40. or are they usually stuffed.

[rob101]

patrick from BMA has also offered me the following for slightly less than the sum of all those parts.

4 X 25 11 1 220 439 SHIM
1 X 25 11 1 220 600 BUSHING
1 X 25 11 1 220 832 BUSHING, SHIFT LEVER
2 X 25 11 1 220 379 CLIPS
1 X 25 11 1 434 148 Z3 LEVER

which would get it short shift as well. I am wondering whether i can get away with the short shift kit to fix it up?

[rob101]

bump

[myles]

I've done the same to all of my manuals.

I replaced parts 1, 3, 4, 5, 9 and 10. I only did 6 on my e34 because the e36 didn't have a problem with the old one, its easy enough to check that before you pull it all apart.

I stayed with the standard shifter.

[Dave M]

Not sure if you checked the archives. If not, heres an old thread on an e34 linkage rebuild that may or may not help answer some questions. Parts are discussed in detail.

Dave M

[rob101]

thanks guys, It looks like i can save some money but not getting the shift boot. which I can replace later fairly easily anyway.

[genphreak]

thanks guys, It looks like i can save some money but not getting the shift boot. which I can replace later fairly easily anyway.

Hi Rob, I may have to do this on an e36 also. Any chance you can list what you end up buying, would reccommend for others, and how much the whole deal ended up costing, I (and a few others) would really appreciate it.

Am in Europe atm, it is amazing how many manuals are here. And how many 520s are around. Even saw a rusty e34 for the first time. (it had gone in the doglegs, under the rear lights (at the quarter panel join) and front fenders.

Cheers, Nick

As Rob knows, in Oz we are spared salt enduced misery (and trade it for high parts costs)

[rob101]

Nick, its costed just under 110 AUD from the good people at bma.
That was pretty much everything on the pelican parts list except for the rubber boot.
hey btw, i've got two e28 front wheel bearing/hubs around here someplace but no e28 to put them on (sold her no space here and she wasn't getting driven). do you want them?

[genphreak]

Nick, its costed just under 110 AUD from the good people at bma.
That was pretty much everything on the pelican parts list except for the rubber boot.
hey btw, i've got two e28 front wheel bearing/hubs around here someplace but no e28 to put them on (sold her no space here and she wasn't getting driven). do you want them?

Heh, thanks Rob- I could. I need to do the brakes on the ol beast soon and will take a look (probably they are ok though).

Am in Vienna atm- but will call u when I get back- don't throw em out!

Best regards from the ol' country, Nick

[rob101]

hey nick just thought i'd let you know i finally got around to doing it and it was rather a pain in the arse. i think i need ramps i just can't seem to get enough height underneath the car with jack stands, anyway the stuff i bought covered it though i didn't get the joint to the selector rod off. its a different type to the early e36s which have a sleeve and spring washer to retain the pin in the joint, whereas its just a spring washer in a groove (no sleeve look up the 325i joint vs the m44 318is and you'll see what i mean) which is virtually impossible to get out in situ. i figure i'll just get it changed out when they do the clutch on that car i gave it a bit of a tug and whilst there was a tiny bit of play it wasn't flogged out or anything like that.

to be honest with you not much wear in the bushes but my gf says she can feel a bit of a difference. it can be done with the driveshaft in but i would recommend you have quite a few short screwdrivers. the hardest part was the pin for the shifter arm which is clipped onto the trans, you need to hammer a large screwdriving from the rear side of the clip to pry it up.