Transmission Removal, 540 Auto, Fishing for ideas.

[whiskychaser]

I dont have another torque convertor so the old one is going back in. While on the subject, I've read that it's very important to mark where the torque convertor sits on the shaft. Why is this critical?

I think what he meant was he marked the TC position in the bellhousing so he would know how when it was fully 'home'. (There is a gear inside the TC that engages in the gearbox) Put the TC in the box then spin it slowly while pushing it in. It will probably go back a couple of inches. Worth noting his warnings about ATF lurking in the TC and behind the filter

[leicesterboy15]

My box has a delay when engaging reverse for the 1st time, any subsequent time in quick succession is fine. And I think my torque converter is going, car feels like a turbo, no power until 3k rpm then it just takes off. Also if I plant my foot on take off I hear all sorts of nasty metallic noises from underneath as it takes off so I have stopped doing this, kind of nursing it for now until I get time and money for a sort out, I am prepared to replace the trans, ideally with a 6 speed manual but other things need doing first and my house is taking up all my money

Thanks for the info, if the box has to come out to replace the TC I may as well get it reconditioned at the same time. Car has 138k and I suspect the fluid has never been changed. I just can't find a good mechanic to sort me out!

[blue540]

My box has a delay when engaging reverse for the 1st time, any subsequent time in quick succession is fine. And I think my torque converter is going, car feels like a turbo, no power until 3k rpm then it just takes off.

Valve body rebuild or even just new fluid and filter may sort out your delay.

Also if I plant my foot on take off I hear all sorts of nasty metallic noises from underneath as it takes off so I have stopped doing this, kind of nursing it for now until I get time and money for a sort out, I am prepared to replace the trans, ideally with a 6 speed manual but other things need doing first and my house is taking up all my money

Thanks for the info, if the box has to come out to replace the TC I may as well get it reconditioned at the same time. Car has 138k and I suspect the fluid has never been changed. I just can't find a good mechanic to sort me out!

I had some nastly metalic rubbing too, turns out my gearbox mounts were shagged along with one engine mount too. The engine and box were twisiting and causing the prop to rub on the heatshields.

You can see in this pic where it has worn the paint of the prop (rusty bit) right next to the coupling. You can also see the shiny bit of heatshield directly above it where it was rubbing.

[whiskychaser]

Great pic! Was it easier to leave the flexidisc on the prop? Seem to remember there wasnt room to get at those front bolts on mine so I left it on the box. Isnt there something about having to be careful which bolts you torque when you put it back together or you chew it up? Mine 'looked' OK but got a new one anyway

[blue540]

Great pic! Was it easier to leave the flexidisc on the prop? Seem to remember there wasnt room to get at those front bolts on mine so I left it on the box. Isnt there something about having to be careful which bolts you torque when you put it back together or you chew it up? Mine 'looked' OK but got a new one anyway

Hello, big delay in reply but better late than never I suppose.

I found that I could not undo the bolts that would leave the disc on the box, I did go for those ones first but couldn't budge them. Managed to get to the others Ok. Bit of a nasty task of having to lift one wheel and drop into neutral to spin the prop so as to be able to get to all 3 fixings though, especially as the car was so high up on blocks already.

Here's some more pics......


Jacked up nice and high, this takes ages and is quite a hairy procedure. E34's are heavy.


One of the biggest problems I had was with the exhaust header to Cat joints. This pic shows how each side has 2 differing ways of attaching each of the two pipes. One set has studs inserted through form the rear of the flange, these are a splined interference fit and I could see no way of removing them. Why would you want to remove them you may ask? Because 3 of the 4 sheared or had to be cut because the nut on the other end had rusted to nothing. The other pipes have square nuts tack welded to the back of the flange for you to insert the bolt into. 3 out of 4 of the these square nuts also broke free during removal.

I then had to very carefully drill out the 3 broken studs. As this metal has been subjected to lots of heat it is very hard. After grinding them off back to the flange, I used 3 different size cobalt drills in each stud, 3mm to begin with, and only going in 4 to 5mm at a time before opening up the pilot hole with a larger drill. I did not want to snap off 40mm of cobalt drill in my studs!!!

To refit I just used nuts and bolts, it's a bit tricky getting access to the back of the flanges obviously, which why BMW arranged it like they did.



These are my CATS. I have holed one of them on the pipe section. See below.

All the scrappers I have looked at have different shaped units though so I have not been able to replace. This hole now has a piece of Baked bean can hose clamped to it with lots of Gun Gum.

[blue540]

Reached 5 Pic Limit, part two.



I figured it was worth replacing the input shaft seal while I was able to. Be careful removing the old one, I did not have any kind of puller device so had to carefully deform the seal inward with a screwdriver to enable me to remove it. There is a washer behind this seal, be sure to put it back in place before you drive in your new seal.... Especially if your method of removal destroys the seal. Seal is only £7 os so, but it really screwed up my Sunday when realised I had left the washer out having just driven my new seal in.


Amazed me when I saw that all the power and torque form the V8 is transferred to the torque convertor by this thin plate of stainless bolted to the flywheel.

Any ways, all fitted back together OK. It was hard handing over £200 to BMW stealer for fluid but it had to be done. I filled using a long piece of hose and big funnel. Relied on Gravity to push the fluid ino the box. When it started to drop out the bottom I would start the engine and run throught the gears, then get back out a put in more fluid until it began to flow out constantly.

Once I dropped it off the blocks I was unable to properly test the level so I took it to a BMW specialist to Top up.

I've put about 1000 miles on it now with no problems (touch wood). Rebuilt valve body seems to be working well, nice smooth shifts. It can be a bit notchy when cold but I can live with that.

All in it cost me about £450. Fluid was more than the box itself (ebay special).

I wonder what will break next......

Thanks for all your help.