Brake Pads

[Sam-Son]

More questions and another dip in to the wealth of knowledge on this board...
I'm lookin to replace my pads and rotors
Which would you guys recommend Axxis/PBR metal master dustless or Axxis/PBR Ultimate street pads?
Just curious
Thanks
-Mike

[Brandon J]

What do you want out of your brakes? What is your climate? What wheels do you have? Do you drive kids? Are you the only driver? What tires? Future upgrades planned?

Sorry for all the questions, but anyone who comments on what fits you without asking you questions doesn't have the answers. So, lets learn more about what your needs are for the brakes.

I can tell you what fits me. I wanted brakes that will work when cold, are not noisy, stop well, pads that don't wear out fast, pads that don't wear the rotors too fast, pads that can take the heat of spirited driving, a pad that didn't dust too much. I did not mention price.

I chose the M5 brake upgrade with solid rotors for maximum friction area. I use Axxis Ultimates because of their performance in the cold and hot. They dust less than factory and the dust is more grey. I decided I wanted better stopping and less fade at the expense of some dust. I love my set-up. Perfect for the street and I have used them on the track.

Here are some of my pad experiences:
group
Hawk HPS - need to be warmed-up to work well, not good for emergency stopping
PBR/Axxis Deluxe - no dust, actually made noise, pad glazed, glazed pad glazed the rotor, didn;t stop as well as stock
Textar - factory BMW pad, lots of dust that stains the wheels, good braking, very consistent, easy on the rotors
Mintex Red Box - don't like, they seem to have some irregular wear, not good stopping, never use with cross-drilled rotors

group
Akebono - Like them as a stock replacement, good consistent stopping, no dust, no noise, easy on rotors
Axxis Ultimates - Like them, dust just a little less than factory, great stopping cold, great stopping warm, less fading
Track pads - Love how they stop at the track, they are so noisy and dusty, the stopping friction might suck your eyeballs out, wear out rotors

Solid rotors are great and cheaper. The first 2 places to look at for heat resistance when braking are the pads and the brake fluid. So choose the pad and the price that fits you. I would suggest to anyone to flush the brake fluid. I like to use Ate Typ 200. It is the same as Super Blue, but I don't like how the Super Blue can tint the plastic reservoir blue. If you want to purchase brake fluid at the local parts store, then look for the Valvoline Synpower fluid. It is much cheaper than the Ate fluid and is very very good for the street. I like that I can get it whenever I want to. As with all brake fluid, it should be changed once a year.

[repenttokyo]

Here are some of my pad experiences:
group
Hawk HPS - need to be warmed-up to work well, not good for emergency stopping

I'm running Hawk HPS now and I don't have a problem, with emergency stopping. I intend on running them through the winter, where we get -40 degree weather. I have run Hawk HP+ on the street through the winter before and experienced no problems with emergency stopping - and that's an even more aggressive brake pad.

I would reccomend Hawk pads without hesitation. I liked the HP+ pads more than my current HPS, although the HPS are quieter and cleaner from a brake dust perspective. I am running brembo rotors, but I received a bad rotor in my order and had to get a new one, so I am unsure if I would order from Brembo again.

[Sam-Son]

As always Brandon I can rely on you for quality info after reading what you wrote I'm definitely going for the axxis ultimates. As far as rotors I was looking at TMS X-drilled.
It seems redundant considering I already got the answer I was looking for but I might as well answer your quesions
1- I want something that'll stop well in the cold as well as hot, no noise, I can't afford to go through rotors very often, little less dust would be good

2-I have style 32's

3-I have 3 younger siblings so yea I drive kids sometimes

4-I'm the only driver

5-Avon Tech M550 A/S

6-Bilstein shocks, polyurethane control arm bush., LWFW, eventually S52 swap

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Unless you're take'n the car to the track, I'd forget cross drilled rotors and just get a set of Brembos or ATEs.

[Sam-Son]

Unless you're take'n the car to the track, I'd forget cross drilled rotors and just get a set of Brembos or ATEs.

Aren't brembos abit pricey? and don't the ATEs chew up pads?


OK I'll be honest I also really like the look of X-drilled not to mention I drive as if I'm on the track...all the time so I want as much performance as possible even if I never use it, Its for piece of mind

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Aren't brembos abit pricey? and don't the ATEs chew up pads?


OK I'll be honest I also really like the look of X-drilled not to mention I drive as if I'm on the track...all the time so I want as much performance as possible even if I never use it, Its for piece of mind

I dunno, the Brembos were the cheapest out here.

Cross drilled? Bling Bling

paint your calipers too

[Sam-Son]

I dunno, the Brembos were the cheapest out here.

Cross drilled? Bling Bling

paint your calipers too

Makin fun Bob?
Seriously though I would also paint the calipers

If you know where to find cheap brembos I don't suppose you'd like to pass that info along...

[Blitzkrieg Bob]

Makin fun Bob?
Seriously though I would also paint the calipers

If you know where to find cheap brembos I don't suppose you'd like to pass that info along...

Cheap may be realtive...I live in Hawaii where shipping a rotor is $$$.

So, the local parts shop sells them at $70

[Sam-Son]

Cheap may be realtive...I live in Hawaii where shipping a rotor is $$$.

So, the local parts shop sells them at $70

Hmm still like the TMS ones