Having problems removing rear strut assembly

[e34.535i.sport]

Oh my god its done! A mate and I just finished the job at 12.40...AM!

Went to town on the rusty nut with the cold chisel and a BFH, only to turn it from a nut into a spikey block of metal! Nith this not going well i borrowed a neighbours drill and put a few holes in it - and give it a few more heavy blows with the chisel. I got it off but have damaged the framework where the mount meets the car a little. sort of dented it downwards, but i think it'll be ok.

Got the other side done without any hassle, going to try and do a write up on it for other first timers.

The mounts were absolutely destroyed, no wonder there was so much noise coming from back there. Post some pictures of them tomorrow if i can...

Thanks for the help guys - its always appreciated.

[Brandon J]

have a look at this

Dave M

I have found this to be the best way. Dave draws it out clearly by slightly threading the same bolt and using a puller or even a similar ball-joint tool. It does it so easily without damaging the shock housing, the rubber bushing in the shock, or surrounding parts. I don't even get damaged, lol. Both wheels have to be off the ground or the swaybar links removed.

Sometimes old shocks have damaged or rotted shock bushings. They flex a lot or even are cracked at a few places. Hitting the shock housing moves and flexes without transfering any force on the shock insert-to-trailing arm. So, it doesn't budge. This way gets it out.

[e34.535i.sport]

I have found this to be the best way. Dave draws it out clearly by slightly threading the same bolt and using a puller or even a similar ball-joint tool. It does it so easily without damaging the shock housing, the rubber bushing in the shock, or surrounding parts. I don't even get damaged, lol. Both wheels have to be off the ground or the swaybar links removed.

Sometimes old shocks have damaged or rotted shock bushings. They flex a lot or even are cracked at a few places. Hitting the shock housing moves and flexes without transfering any force on the shock insert-to-trailing arm. So, it doesn't budge. This way gets it out.

Dave is the man - i went and bought one as soon as i looked at the thread because i knew i'd seen them before in Halfords for an unbelievable £13.99! I know exactly what you mean, it just makes it so easy to remove the bottom end of the shock. I didn't want to hammer it too hard anyway as the shocks are good and the M-tec ones are really expensive!

I didn't need to remove the sway links or anything though, and only had one wheel off the ground! All the job's i've done have been done with one wheel off the ground, with no problems at all.

[Dave M]

I was wondering what you did with the bottom. Glad it worked out. The added bonus is you had an excuse to buy another tool, which will come in very handy for lots o other things.

Dave M

[e34.535i.sport]

I was wondering what you did with the bottom. Glad it worked out. The added bonus is you had an excuse to buy another tool, which will come in very handy for lots o other things.

Dave M

Ha ha thanks Dave! I just wish i'd have bought it before we done my friends control arm bushes on his e36! Woulda saved us a few hours and almost broken limbs!

Any job is easy with the right tool...

[e34.535i.sport]

Here's some pictures of the rogue parts! I can't believe how bad they were...

[e34.535i.sport]

And some more... I'm not great with a camera...





And the b*stard nut that wouln't play ball...

[Barney Paull-Edwards]

Now thats rooted! Well done on gorilla method of removal. Done the front yet? Beware the ******* that either has fitted E28 mounts or G&S give you the wrong ones,gorilla time.