Before you replace them, buy a set of bruno`s delrin inserts, it transforms the rear end, for pence.If you must do the job then take the sub-frame right off and be lazy, get a garage to do it!
Before you say it, I'd use the search button if it worked. £2-300 for something like a Sealey that I would use once seems a bit steep. Dont fancy the melt it with a blow lamp and jack it in/out with a piece of wood method. So has anyone got a design/drawing thats simple and works that I can hand to my local engineering company to fab up? Anyone else in UK interested and I will see if I can get a discount
Just so we are clear its item 2 I'm talking about replacing:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...19&hg=33&fg=30
Before you replace them, buy a set of bruno`s delrin inserts, it transforms the rear end, for pence.If you must do the job then take the sub-frame right off and be lazy, get a garage to do it!
drop the subframe as low as it will go and sawzall (reciprocating saw) through from the inside out though the metal part of the bushing, you know when you are through when it pinches the blade (go further and you are sawing on the subframe), put a couple sockets on top of the bushing and jack up the subframe pushing the bushing out, soap up the new bushing brace the subframe against the floor and jack the bushing inplace
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
+1... Winfred describes it perfectly.
TIP: Put the new bush in the freezer overnight before fitting or you will struggle to jack it in... I tried to jack one in just using washing up liquid and got it stuck. Had to cut it out again. Not good. Put the next one in the freezer and it popped in within seconds.
You can do it without a puller and save £££, just takes a bit of elbow grease.
Hmmm. When I used soap on mine, they popped back out. BMW's factory service manual says only to use water to lube up the bushing. Maybe you've had better luck than I've had with soap.
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy
Yeah there was a lot of discussion on whether to use W-U-liquid or not - i would have preferred not too but apparently it disipates quickly once in and under pressure when driving? I haven't had any problems so far touch-wood. I would hate to try with just water, that would be HARD!![]()
hmmm i may try the freezer thing in the future firm up the rubber a little, the right side on my 633 decided to stop about 5mm from home, decided **** it it'll live
Originally Posted by e34.535i.sport
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
Tire install lube is supposed to work as well. Someone on one of the forums mentioned a cleaner by "Goop" that evaporates with no residue. Forgot the exact name.
Thanks,
1995 525i Auto, M50TU 2.5L, EAT chip, 1/95 build, USA, 205/65/15 tires, ASC+T, HID, lumbar, EC Mirror, BMW Alpine 5 radio with BMW-Pioneer CD Changer, abt 236k miles, Oxford Green/Parchment
whiskychaser, You have email w attachment.
Ramon
1994 540iA Nikasil EAT Chip
Tampa Bay, Florida USA
...ok not to doubt you all, but:
1. is it really that easy?
2. how much are subframe bushes?
3. I got 150K on my car.... will I "notice" a real improvement?
(already have the delrin inserts, and new dogbones)
If it's like said here... geez, will go for it...but always seemed like the job was a major PITA....
What say you all? ( hey winfred, you're in LA... close to the water by any chance..? 'cause the redfish are kicking ass here in gulf coast mississippi....I'm gettin fat from eatin so many...)
Originally Posted by winfred
1993 / 525ia / M50TU / EAT / Sachs / Infiniti Kappa & Basslink / super clean / Style 5s wearing Pilots / Mobil 1 everywhere / long road ahead