DIY wheel allignment

[Dash01]

how much toe in did you give it, or was it just a guess?

It was not a guess. Rather, it was a calculation, taking the prescribed toe-in and working backward to estimate how much offset from a straight line is correct when measured at the tire bulge. In other words, there is less offset at the bulge than out at the tread, the tread being further from the pivot point.

In essence, there should be a straight line (as seen by sighting down the taught thread, when placed horizontally across the equators of the tires) that intersects both bulges of the rear tire, the aft bulge of the front tire, and the outer surface of the 1/16" allen wrench held snug to the front bulge of the front tire by the thread. Run one long and taught piece of thread around the whole car, held in place by a bit of tape. Make sure the thread crosses each tire at its equator, i.e., right across the center of each hub. Then, insert the allen wrench between the thread and that tire sidewall bulge on the front side of the front tire. Adjust toe-in such that the thread is straight across the bulges of the rear tire, the aft bulge of the front tire, and across the allen wrench.

Start by parking the car on a smooth, level surface with the steering wheel centered and wheels pointed straight ahead.

Use fishing line or string if thread is not available, or a heavy duty paper clip if you don't have a ~1/16" allen wrench, since they are about the same thickness. 10 or 12 Postit notes from a Postit note pad would also work--anything of correct thickness that is light and will offset the fore tire bulge from a straight line by ~1/16".

If I could post pictures here, you'd see at a glance how this works. I just rewind the thread on its spool, and put it back in wife's sewing kit until next time. Been doing this for decades.

[leicesterboy15]

I had the wheel shimmy and clunking so I replaced the upper and lower arms and bushes and sway bar links but shimmy was still there. Thought maybe geometry was put out so replaced the tie rods and got the car 4 wheel laser aligned, shimmy is still there, car is now jittery and not so surefooted like the wheels are going in different directions and the wheel sometimes seems off-centre - it seems that this 540i is either cursed or a bitch to work on as everytime I have taken it to a garage to get some work done, they screw something up (different garage each time) so I suppose the tracking should be no different. If this device works and it means one less trip to the garage then its well worth it! It cost me £50 for the 4 wheel laser alignment which is roughly the same as the purchase price for this thing!

[shogun]

so far I have only done the front, and that is really easy.
On another board someone answered:

"It's a toe gauge. Pretty much as accurate as a $30,000 alignment machine as far as toe is concerned. Works on the front and rear. Excellent tool to have if you're replacing tie rods or thrust rod bushings in the front. Useless if replacing rear suspension components."

[BigKriss]

well, only the toe is adjustable on our cars

[shogun]

Kris,
here is one again, they ship worldwide from U.K.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Trakrite-Wheel-A...sid=p1638.m122

[shogun]

manual how to do
http://www.gunson.co.uk/items/pdf/Pr...structions.pdf
http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1812

[BigKriss]

Erich, does is come with the rubber pad also to put on the other wheel?

[shogun]

Erich, does is come with the rubber pad also to put on the other wheel?

yes, I got the rubber pad also.

[BigKriss]

To the guys who use string or tape measure, where you you get the centre measurement from, the middle of the centre tie rod (track rod), or the ends of it? or somewhere else?

[bsell]

To the guys who use string or tape measure, where you you get the centre measurement from, the middle of the centre tie rod (track rod), or the ends of it? or somewhere else?

I measured from the highest point on the front-side and rear-side of the front tires as I could get while maintaining a tight, straight tape measure. Of course I used the same grooves in the tires, both front and back. As you will need an assistant to hold the other end of the tape against the tire, make sure your helper understands the idea of using the same groove on both sides of the tire.

After reading the geometry post above, I started wondering what the definition of toe-in really was...so I went to Wikipedia and read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_(automotive)

You know this toe-in setting is not that big a deal to do after tackling the job a couple times. Altering the setting a little bit, 1/8th inch, or so can be felt pretty quickly during normal and spirited driving. The tell-tale feathering of overdone toe angle takes more time to show so use good measuring technique and check your work a couple times, then everything will be all right.

Brian