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Thread: Replace final drive bushings today...

  1. #1

    Default Replace final drive bushings today...

    I replaced the three round bushings that hold the final drive in place today. It really made a positive difference. the car seems more solid. It's hard to explain but even my wife noticed it.

    Following is a pic of the old bushings being pulled. I used some tricks to install the new ones. I'll post a procedure when I get one together.

    Messerschmitt


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    291

    Default Can you describe the improvements???

    My 1991 535i has about a totally new suspension after all I've replaced over the years. However, it still feels like the backend is about a half step behind the front end. The quickness of response is just not there. I've often wondered if part of the problem is worn out diff bushings or rear control arm bushings. I'm interested to know how it feels different to you. I'd also like to hear how you did it.

    Grace and peace,

    Robert K
    1991 535i

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    NE GA
    Posts
    157

    Default

    My car has similar symptoms as Robert describes. Especially noticable in high speed corners. Didn't seem as bad until after I installed Bilstein Sports, BA springs, upper & lower control arms w/750 bushings, frt sway bar links etc. I kind of thought it might be sidewall flex of the Dunlop A2's and have experimented with air pressures up to 40psi which helped some. Might be time to look at rear bushings (or slow down in the corners). I'm also interested in your results.
    JR
    1992 525 IA, EAT chip, 16 x 7.5 Rondell 58's, BavAuto Springs, Bilstein Sports, Elipsoid Smileys & fogs, Z3 Pistol grip shifter, 4 VDO gauge package, Azure Blue w/nice patina - clearcoat shot

  4. #4

    Default I think this may help...

    Like you guys, I've replaced most everything that anyone ever replaces on an E34 and the car still didn't feel "new". After rebuilding the front end (everything) The "softness" in the rear became really apparent.

    First I replaced the strut inserts and the sub-frame maounts. That made a BIG difference. Later I replaced the driveshaft due to some vibration (which is back).

    The rear of the car still felt soft. As stated below the rear end was about one second behind the front when making sudden turns. It really showed up if I weaved back and forth in one lane. Since the diff. bushings seem to hold the rear of the subframe it made sense that if they were weak it would make the rear end soft.

    Replacing them wasn't too bad. I did the front mount while i had the exaust off replacing the driveshaft. I used my Kukko bearing puller and a bolt to pull it and two washers, nuts and some all-thread to press the new one in. The two in the rear were done in a similar fashion. the rear of the subframe can be lowered be removing the vertical bolt that holds the rear end to the square rubber mount. You'll want to support the diff with a jack while removing this bolt and lower it slowly. You will also want to remove the bushing bolts ahead of time since they are in tight! The axles will rest on top of the sub-frame and it can be lowered about four inches. You will then be able to get to the bushings to pull and replace them. you may want to remove the aluminum mounting bracket from the rear of the diff, it will provide much better clearance. Be sure to heat the bushings well so that they will go in and out easier. Here are some more pics:

  5. #5

    Default Results....

    The new bushings did tighten up the rear end of the car. It seems more solid over bumps. It doesn't wander like it did before on the highway. It definately improved the overall handling and ride. The bushings are cheap so I'd recommend replacing them.

    You will need a Kukko (or similar) counterstay bearing puller, as well as an assortment of bolts washers and all-thread to get the bushings in and out. I started using a heat gun to heat the bushing housing but ended up using a propane torch since it was much faster.

    I don't have a pic but you will need a peice of 3/8" all thread long enought o go through both bushings and have about two inches sticking out on each side. You will need to use this rig and some washers to seat the bushings to the proper depth. It'll make sense when you do the job. Cheap solution...

    Messerschmitt

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    NE GA
    Posts
    157

    Default

    Messerschmitt,
    Thanks for the info and the great post/pics. I'll take a close look asap. Unfortunately my next project will be to repair the leaky A/C discharge hose I found Friday then maybe on to the rear end....
    JR
    1992 525 IA, EAT chip, 16 x 7.5 Rondell 58's, BavAuto Springs, Bilstein Sports, Elipsoid Smileys & fogs, Z3 Pistol grip shifter, 4 VDO gauge package, Azure Blue w/nice patina - clearcoat shot

  7. #7

    Default More info on rear end work below!

    Messerschmitt

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    291

    Default Were you going to supply a link???

    I'd love to see or know more about what you did. I didn't find anything with your post. Am I missing something?

    Grace and peace,

    Robert K
    1991 535

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,374

    Default

    How have you fellas gone with this work? Any news?

    In particular, did anyone check their rear wheel alignment prior and/or after as I suspect worn bushings would show up in the results... Just trying to work out if mine is due for the same treatment, my alignemnt figures are still within spec though. Nick

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

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